Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion Advice from Axiom Owners yammi rvx1300 question

i've an rxv1300 and have my older speakers wired to b terminals. i've gone into the set up and changed the b speakers to remote. the b speakers are hooked up okay in the garage, and they play. i un-select the a speakers when i play the speakers in the garage, but the sub stays active. at this time i need to manually shut the sub off. is this a failing of the yammi, or have i missed something simple? the sub is an ep350, connected with a + and - cable to the receiver.

To what terminals is your sub attached? From your post, it sounds as if you are using the speaker-level connection. Do you have the option of connecting it using the line-level option to a sub pre-out?

i'm confused about your question. i have the two cables connected to: output, left and main on the yammi. then connected to the sub positive and negative terminals.

Oh no! Now I'm confused

Let me start over. What kind of cable(s) do you have running between your sub and the Yamaha: stereo RCA or standard speaker cable?

stereo rca, one pair, a plus and negative, which plugged right into the ep350, and two ports on the yammi

I think I've found your problem. I found an image of the back of your receiver on this page.

You should be using a single RCA cable between the receiver and the sub. Plug one end into the Subwoofer Output (there's only one) and the other end into either the left or right input on your sub -- it doesn't matter which.

Dan, Peter's right, but now I'm curious: what two outputs on your 1300 do you have the sub connected to? If you're using anything other than the single sub output you probably haven't been getting proper bass management.

so, i should take one of the two leads i'm using now and connect it to the other port on the receiver, and simply leave the two connected to the sub as they are since only one will be active?

well, i'm presently using the two ports, labeled output, L & R just to the right of the subwoofer single output. i bought the twin cables from rat shack before the sub arrived. since the sub had two input ports on it, and there were two ports labeled output on the receiver, i figured they went there. i thought i could use either a single cable, or the twin supplied by ratshack. having just recently hooking up B speakers, this wasn't an issue. this weekend, i'll swap out the connection, and report back.

In reply to:

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so, i should take one of the two leads i'm using now and connect it to the other port on the receiver, and simply leave the two connected to the sub as they are since only one will be active?

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No. That will possibly results in a bad hum from the sub. Say: "NEVER LEAVE NO DANGLING CABLE NOWHERE!"

You need only ONE coax RCA cable (or use only ONE in the pair), which should go from the SUBWOOFER output of the receiver to ONE of the line-level input on the sub. No more connections.

Yikes! The way you have it hooked up now, the receiver is sending the FULL BANDWIDTH SIGNAL to your subwoofer. The Main L&R outputs are meant for the front left and right channels, not the subwoofer.

Take sushi's advice and use a single cable between the sub and the dedicated Subwoofer Output.

Yes Dan, this was discussed in the thread you started 12/21/02 on Home Theater, which you might review, and your owners manual also describes the connection. In short, use one of the two cables(maybe tape the other one so it doesn't flop around)from the one sub out on the 1300 to either one(makes no difference, they join inside the sub)of the EP350 low level inputs. Since this now sends bass below about 90hz to the sub, set all speakers "small" on the 1300 and turn the EP350 crossover(not the level control!!!)all the way up to get it out of the way of the 90hz crossover the 1300 does. I'm also curious as to the speaker size and EP350 crossover settings which you've been using.

boy do i feel dumb. if i understand..disconnect one input wire to the sub, and tape its end off. then do the same with the other end of the paired cable. tape off the same cable, and move the other to the sub output on the yammi. correct?

Yes Dan, it's best to use a single coaxial cable sub connect, but using one of your double cable should be satisfactory.

And incidentally, I understand that when you switch to the "B" speaker on your 1300, that although that shuts off all the "A" speakers properly connected(mains, center, sub, surrounds)it has no effect on the main pre-outs which you've been using to drive the sub. That's why the sub stayed on.

read sushi's reply, and will connect and disconnect as advised. but looking at my manual, there are connections for the surround speakers well illustrated which i followed. so simply put, what are the "output" main and rear used for? the surrounds are wired to rear, L & R, center, fronts, etc.

i have two 60's for fronts, set to large. the vp100, and qs8's set to small. i was also sending lfe to main & sub as it sounded fuller. maybe system will sound better with sub properly connected.

thanks for the reply, i have been posting to all that have helped. i'll try it tonight before wife gets home and asks me what i'm doing now.

The Main, Center, and Rear Outputs are provided for those who wish to use external amplifiers. They are also called "pre-outs" which means the signal is sent out before any amplification or processing is done to it.

Still further, Dan, all of the outputs in that one section are to be used when an external amp is driving the speaker in question; it sends a low-level signal to those amps, bypassing the 1300's amps. The only use you have for that set of outputs is the single sub out, for the sub, which of course has its own amp. I'd also suggest setting the LFE on the 1300 to sub instead of both. Probably what you've been getting is too "full".

thanks

again, thanks, will re-wire tonight.

thank you people, read all the posts and correctly wired the sub thursday evening. now when i select speakers "b", the sub is silent. hard to believe, but the system doesn't sound much different than it did before.
since you all helped me, if there is anything you guys need in the way of replacement appliance parts, let me know and i'll return the favor.
dan

Do you do car parts, too? The flux capacitor on my Delorean just stopped working last night.

This is serious... The inner "basket" of our GE laundry washer has started to rotate itself lately. Do you know how can I fix it?

I don't think I gave you any advice, but do you know anything about AC systems?

parts is parts, but we don't do car parts. major appliance and hvac parts is our forte.
dan

i think you need a new transmission. your washer is probably older than 9 to 10 years old. get me the model number off the washer..down near floor on left hand side on a sliver sticker, and i'll check stock.
dan

haven't done service in years, but what's your problem?

New construction. We've got two AC compressors outside - a 3 ton and a 2 ton (I think). Big one cools the downstairs, little one the upstairs. Rather than running two different sized suction lines for the two differently sized compressors, they installed both with 3/4" suction lines. According to the manuals that is the appropriate size for the smaller unit, but too small for the larger unit. They offered to rip everything out and redo it (massive stucco and drywall damage) or install a TXV valve (I think) that is supposed to sense the temperature in the suction line and increase or decrease the volume in the liquid line accordingly. We opted for the latter solution and received another year on our warranty. Is that setup going to work? Or are we going to have trouble down the line?

Dan,

The model number of our GE clothes washer is: WJSR2080T8WW.

[And no, it's not the serial number but the model name! No wonder nobody calls these stuff by the model number. Have you ever overheard the conversation at Best Buy like, "My Maytag XRGH8496WS has more power reserve than your wimpy GE WJSR2080T8WW, and get you a distortion-free finish. HAHAHA!" LOL]

Back to business, I think we bought this one like 6-7 years ago. A new ransmission??? -- Ouch! Sounds like it's gonna cost...


[P.S. Peter was joking -- remember Back to the Future?]

the txv valve is a metering device which either increases the flow of refrigerant to the "a" coil or decreases it. by doing this it keeps the a coil from freezing up. so if you compare this to a garden hose, more water flows without a nozzle, but sprays with more force with a nozzle. this may work for you, i'm not sure. my 3-1/2 ton unit has 3/4" copper, so you may be good to go.
good luck, dan

i hope you live in canada. ge sourced out this washer from camco; it's a piece of junk. ge originally had problems with the transmission. being it's out of warranty, the TRADE price on the transmission is $79.95, and in stock. it comes out as a complete assembly. if the wife says trash it, consider going to www.staber.com and check out their product. this is the only brand of washer we sell. it's a commercial washer for domestic use. do not buy a neptune or frigidaire front loader. if interested in a staber, we can have one drop shipped in usa. any more questions...ask.
dan

Althogh this thread no longer resembles its original subject heading, i'm jumping in anyway.

twodan,
It is interesting what you say about the Neptune and Frigidaire. We just bought a Maytag last year and already had the tranny and tub brakes replaced on it under warranty. Damn thing still screams like a banshee when it comes to a halt. Since then it has also tore up some of our shirts (bad fin design). We plan on leaving it behind when we move.

I've passed the Staber link on to the wife.

Excellent. Thank you. A little bit more peace of mind now. I wanted to trust the repair guy, but he works for the company, y'know?