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Not so Simple sound treatment :)
fredk #268686 08/09/09 03:53 AM
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mikeak Offline OP
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 Originally Posted By: fredk
 Quote:
After that I am looking for material readily available to build sound panels and besides the acoustic fabric in-front of the speakers that is going to be "all" that I do as start-up for the HT.

I assumed from the above that you would be covering the false wall in fabric, though re-reading it I don't know why I reached that conclusion. Thats why I suggested putting the fibre board behind the false wall.

Putting fiber board behind drywall would still give you absorbtion, but I don't know what the effect would be. That would be a question to post on one of the two forums I linked to.


First of all thanks for everyone that replied so far. I realize two things 1) there is no "easy setup" \:\) and 2) The specs decides the product and I was simply not clear enough in detailing my setup so I am going to try again since some answers are based on the correct setup and some are not.

1) Existing front wall is dry-walled, painted and has a window in the middle. It also has a ledge that sticks out 6 inches and goes from the floor and up for 40 inches.

2) I want the screen to go down to 30 inches over the floor so I have to start in-front of the ledge (or I couldn't go down far enough).

3) So in order to attach the screen I am going to do a "false-wall" from each side of the room all across. Basically a wall with studs 12-16 inches apart.

The speakers will be in FRONT of the false wall so between the couches and the wall. So the fabric covering the false wall will not have to be acoustic in the sense of letting sound through

OK so current thought after the posts

1) Put bass trap in the corners - try to make it so I can access and pull out if I don't like how it sounds

Question -- would it defeat the purpose if I built the bass trap from the ledge and up (subwoofer and speakers will be on the floor)

2) Put a few panels of Owens Corning or similar on the back wall (behind the false wall). One reason is that the window will only be covered by plywood. These panels will be 2 inches thick and with gaps between them in order not to kill the sound

Question: Same as for the bass traps. It is significantly easier to just do over the ledge, but I am guessing that would defeat the purpose so will do between the studs on the area below the ledge - does this sound ok?

3) The False wall will be covered with a thicker black fabric that is not see-through so you can't see the studs.

Question -- this material should not matter correct?

4) I will put the speakers in the right and left corners. I may do some kind of cutout so the speakers get more space to the wall. Then I will frame around the speakers and put up acoustical fabric in front of the speakers so they are not visible (young son that gets into everything).

Question: Should I have some kind of hard material under the speakers or just putting them on the carpet is fine?

5) I was planning on building something to put the Center on in the middle -- any suggestions or is it simply better to just put it on the floor and angle it up? (24 ft long room)

Now the stuff that is up front is obviously of main importance to me right now. This involves construction that is not so easy to change. Panels on the wall etc can be built later and added to or subtracted from as I test out different things

Thanks to everyone - your help is very much appreciated

Re: Simple sound treatment
michael_d #268701 08/09/09 07:12 AM
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mikeak Offline OP
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 Originally Posted By: michael_d
It was AIS off 56th street. The stuff they sell is not Owens Corning, some other brand. I looked up its density and found it comparable to Owen’s panels that you see recommended all over the net. They have both foil faced and un-faced. They are 24” X 48” panels. Not exactly cheap, but nothing is up here right?


Michael -- http://www.knaufusa.com/ -- is this the brand?

The only product they had in here in Anchorage was what is called IB-300. I searched the knauf site over and over again for specs (AIS didn't know if they were the 3lbs / cu. ft)

Price for the other stuff I found was 3.25 / sq.ft so yeah - Alaska pricing

Re: Simple sound treatment
mikeak #268702 08/09/09 07:35 AM
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Hey did you see that thread about the guy putting M80's in a cabinet? Alan posted a link to 'in-cabinet' M80's. These might work very well with your false wall. Take a look at them and then perhaps email Alan or JC and see what they say. I think they would look fantastic, and your son wouldn't be able to get into them! \:\)


My Stuff :

M80's
QS8's
VP150
EP800
Denon 4802
Emotiva XPA-3
Samsung BD-P3600
Sharp 65 Inch Aquos LCD
Re: Not so Simple sound treatment :)
mikeak #268714 08/09/09 12:48 PM
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 Quote:
Question -- would it defeat the purpose if I built the bass trap from the ledge and up (subwoofer and speakers will be on the floor)

It won't defeat the purpose, but the general rule for bass trapping in small rooms is the more, the better. Also, extend the corner bass traps as much into the room as you can. The further out they are the lower they will absorb. Bass traps are most effective at the half wave length away from the wall. So take the distance from the front of the trap to the wall and double it and that is the frequency it will be most efficient at absorbing. Go as thick as you can for the corner traps as well.

Since you are putting in a false wall, you can bass trap the ceiling/wall and floor/wall corners as well.

 Quote:
2) Put a few panels of Owens Corning or similar on the back wall (behind the false wall).


I have seen everything from 2x4' panels back behind the speakers to the complete wall covered. I'm not sure which is best or if it varies by room.

I would post this description and your questions on one of the two forums I linked to. The guy who answers the bulk of the posts is one of the tech guys from GIK Acoustics and is quite generous with his advice and suggestions.

 Quote:
3) The False wall will be covered with a thicker black fabric that is not see-through so you can't see the studs.

Question -- this material should not matter correct?

It does make a difference. As the material starts to get heavier it will reflect more and more of the higher frequencies. How much difference it will make in practice, or in your room, I don't know. The guy from GIK will give you a much better answer.

#4 I like Micah's suggestion. Front porting would work best if you build the speakers into the wall. Play with the placement of the speakers before you build them in to get the best sound-stage.

#5 I would put the center up just under the screen. It probably makes it easier to center the dialog vertically. When I first set up my system, I had both my centers (dual M2s) on the floor under my RP pointing strait out. The whole sound-stage was pulled down. Angling the speakers up would have improved things, but I bet its easier if the center is up off the ground.

You have a very solid plan. Now you just need to tweek the details.


Fred

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Blujays1: Spending Fred's money one bottle at a time, no two... Oh crap!
Re: Not so Simple sound treatment :)
fredk #268823 08/10/09 05:48 PM
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mikeak Offline OP
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Fred and Micah - thanks for the reply.

I haven't found the thread about the front-ported M80s yet, but will keep looking. I did find the actual speakers on the store though and they look interesting.

I would probably go with the "regular" finish since I want to have the option of pulling them out.

Can someone confirm if there are any audible differences between the rear-ported and front-ported M80? The Center doesn't look like v2 for the front-ported - is that a big trade-off?

Thanks!

Last edited by mikeak; 08/10/09 05:48 PM.
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