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#394425 - 06/21/13 06:06 PM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
Adrian Offline
axiomite

Registered: 12/27/08
Posts: 6609
Loc: It's all about the location.
Nice work, Nick!

I think we need a DIY'ers corner on these boards if it's OK with Ian.
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Half of communication is listening. You can't listen with your mouth.

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#394439 - 06/22/13 08:30 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
dakkon Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 02/08/04
Posts: 1845
Originally Posted By: nickbuol
Hmm... It has been over a year since I did the modeling and I had someone else on the DIYAudio forums run it too. I guess my memory is wrong. The SVS goes down to 20 Hz with a slightly smaller enclosure, but I am guessing that the port must be a different length to get the tune. Maybe that is where I am off.



Nick, i would take the approach that as long as it plays low and loud, it's good... who cares about a few hz, as long as YOUR happy with the end result.. That's the whole point of a DIY anyhow right?

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#394449 - 06/22/13 11:38 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4429
Loc: Marion, IA
True. I am sure that it will be low and loud. Then again, the SVS was low and plenty loud for my 14'x24'x8' space. :-) I am temped to test this thing upstairs in the living room when it is assembled (before finishing the MDF)... Rattle the house since the theater was built to be "rattle free."
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M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394477 - 06/23/13 12:41 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4429
Loc: Marion, IA
OK. Here are some pictures from the last 36 hours (trying to give glue/nails/clamps time before moving on to next pieces).

First up was getting two of the sides together. I used the woofer end piece and the port end piece to hold things square.


Then I put on another side. Love the glue drips. (not really)


I put on both ends, here showing the port end in place.


And then earlier this evening, I put in the center brace piece as shown here.


I've learned that on the outside it is better to wait for the glue to dry before scraping it off as it comes off nice and clean.

I am going to add a sealer to the inside yet tonight since it has been about 6 hours since the last piece was glued in and hope that it dries up nice by tomorrow when I can continue to work on it.

Oh, and no... My wife does NOT like that I am building this on the dining room table. I just don't want the MDF exposed to all of the humidity in the garage (it is getting bad out there).
_________________________
http://ht.buol.us
M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394483 - 06/23/13 07:19 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
MarkSJohnson Offline
shareholder in the making

Registered: 09/27/04
Posts: 10856
Loc: Central NH
If you didn't have that dang HT in the basement, you could have had a workshop! smile

Really nice work! I've never really considered building a sub before, but you make it look awfully tempting!
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::::::: No disrespect to Axiom, but my favorite woofer is my yellow lab :::::::

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#394488 - 06/23/13 11:17 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4429
Loc: Marion, IA
Ha, I know right....

Three best tools for this project for anyone wondering...

1) Router with circle jig. Homemade jig or something like the Jasper 200 makes cutting perfect circles piece of cake.

2) Air compressor and finishing nailer. So easy to pop in a couple of nails to hold things together before clamping and the glue makes the MDF slide around like it was wet ice.

3) Clamps, clamps, and more clamps. I am using 6 clamps but if I wanted to do more of the gluing at once, I would have needed more. Since that is what I had, I had to put one end on at a time and then the middle brace. With 8 clamps I could have done both ends and with 12 I could have done the ends and middle brace at once saving time on waiting for glue to cure.

It really isn't hard work, just takes time between steps. Of course the finishing work takes longer that the construction depending on the finish.
_________________________
http://ht.buol.us
M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394489 - 06/23/13 02:06 PM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
MarkSJohnson Offline
shareholder in the making

Registered: 09/27/04
Posts: 10856
Loc: Central NH
Nick, where did you find the plans? I don't know much about speaker building, but know that I could handle the actual fabrication and construction if I had a solid plan that didn't require me to figure out Q, tuning frequencies, attributes of drivers, etc.

Did you do this from scratch, or was it based upon a plan that said "Buy THIS particular driver, put it in an enclosure that's 3.9 cubic feet, and put a port of THIS width in THIS location", etc?
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::::::: No disrespect to Axiom, but my favorite woofer is my yellow lab :::::::

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#394497 - 06/23/13 06:20 PM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: MarkSJohnson]
fredk Offline
axiomite

Registered: 12/06/07
Posts: 7042
Loc: Canada
Mark. Both AVS and Home Theater Shack have forums dedicated to building speakers and subs. There are a lots of well documented designs out there
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Fred

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Blujays1: Spending Fred's money one bottle at a time, no two... Oh crap!

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#394498 - 06/23/13 06:51 PM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4429
Loc: Marion, IA
I was on the search to replicate the sound of my current SVS and I already had the amp and was given the port length info, box size, driver to use to get me really close. The construction part was up to me.

Side note, I had modeled this up years ago and came up with similar construction specs. I was using Win ISD software and sonosub software. I basically went for a box if instead of a tube and then just needed to make sure that it was tall enough for the 17" port and yet wide enough for the 12" woofer.

"Box" dimensions don't matter, it is volume, port size and length, woofer, and amp.
_________________________
http://ht.buol.us
M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394578 - 06/25/13 09:49 PM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4429
Loc: Marion, IA
More pictures.
From the other day, I did a test fit of the port tube. Fits great...
Ignore the pooling glue. It did that over the course of a couple of hours. I decided (after this picture) to scrape most of it out before it really got hard. Not that it mattered much.


Next I test fit the woofer and the amp. The amp needed to be recessed a little more, so I did that last night. (it is flush now, but not in this picture)



Here is the water/glue mixture that I brushed on everything but the seams where the full strength glue was going. Put in on thick, let it start to dry, and then brushed it smooth. Here is it wet on the last side panel that was yet to be attached. Did this last night.



Tonight I did two things. I attached the final side panel, and I put a groove along each seam. Over time the seams will start to separate due to moisture, drying, or whatever. Seems like a major problem for a lot of people, and a "pro" had this trick that he came up with over the course of 6 months of testing and experimenting. Use your router to put a groove along each seam, then fill the groove with Bondo. It should never come apart or show a crack. I have a router... I have Bondo, so why not.

I did these in reverse order of what I typed and the pictures show. First up are the last things. The final glue, nail, clamp pictures.





And lastly, which actually happened before the clamping, here is the "groove" picture.



Tomorrow I obviously have to do the grooves for the final side panel since the glue is currently wet and it is clamped in place. Then I will put the Bondo on the seams. I will also do some very light hole filling tomorrow. With any luck I will be sanding on Thursday and getting ready for the first primer coat where I will be able to more easily see what needs to be filled/sanded still.

I would love to be putting on paint this weekend, but with the dry times, sanding, priming, and repeating process, it might be next week, but it is getting there.

In my rush to get glue/nail/clamping done tonight, I missed a step that would have been a LOT easier before the last panel went on. I didn't silicone caulk my seams. I was going to do everything but where the final panel went, but forgot. Oh well, the caulk gun will fit fine though the woofer hole and I can get a little messy with it on the other side of the center brace by applying it with my fingers. I was going to probably have to do that to some degree anyway. Once the acoustical foam panels go on the inside, you will never see the seams even with the woofer or amp removed anyway.

Stay tuned.
_________________________
http://ht.buol.us
M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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