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#394912 - 07/06/13 10:42 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4424
Loc: Marion, IA
Looks cool for a cheap way to do a finish, but yeah for car repair, get the hvlp and if nothing else st least borrow a compressor to run it.

I used my hvlp to paint my 120 gallon saltwater fish tank's stand that I built. I used the Rustoleum oil based enamel (gloss) and it came out pretty nice. I can always fall back to that if need be, but was hoping for a satin, not gloss finish and heard that other products turn out so much nicer than the Rustoleum, especially when not doing a gloss finish.
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M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394915 - 07/06/13 11:39 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
Socketman Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 07/12/09
Posts: 1182
Loc: Whitehorse YT
Im like a crow, I like shiny stuff. smile You will find something at HD for sure.
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#394916 - 07/06/13 11:47 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4424
Loc: Marion, IA
Satin on a subwoofer should look sharp. I hope... Main speakers gloss or close to it would be impressive. Also, I am not 100% confident in how this will look after all of the different layers of material. Gloss will show every imperfection no matter how smooth and even it seems.
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http://ht.buol.us
M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394930 - 07/07/13 12:20 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4424
Loc: Marion, IA
So I am not real happy today.

I went to Home Depot to get some Behr paint (one of the recommended brands for DIY speaker finishing), and I am thinking that I want an acrylic enamel.

I talked to two different paint people there. I told them what I was doing and that I wanted to use the HVLP sprayer that I bought from them. They both agreed that I did not want acrylic enamel, but instead would be much better off with latex enamel. It would spray nice, and be durable. Ha. Wrong.

The stuff sprayed just crap. I used Floetrol (which they also recommended) and water (per Behr's instructions) and thinned it down to the right consistency using a viscosity cup. I did some test spraying, and just couldn't get it the way I wanted no matter what I did. It turned into a runny/saggy mess, and that was with light coats that didn't even completely cover the primer underneath. I thought that maybe it would level out, but never did. It was starting to run. What they heck? It was such a light/fine coat. So I decided to get out a fresh roller and roll over it while I still had the chance. That was fine, but now I have a fine orange peel finish.
Ugh.

So I wait about 10 hours (says it is "dry" in 1 hour, and can be recoated after 2 hours). I go out and do a light sanding with a 320 grit. This took off a few stray bugs that landed in the paint, and rubbed the paint off of the edges in spots. Ugh again.

So I skip the sprayer and just go with a new viscosity that is more for rolling on (basically it was full strength paint plus a touch of the Floetrol and a splash of water). that went on a lot nicer, but of course it will be a fine orange peel when done.

I think that all said and done, it will look OK, but durability will be zero. The primer coat was so smooth that it was possibly TOO smooth for the paint to stick to.

So then, I go back to some cheap ol' Rustoleum enamel paint that I used previously, and that stuff sprayed just fine on my test cardboard. So the Behr stuff that the two "experts" at Home Deport recommended clearly was the WRONG stuff. I went online and sure enough saw a lot of woodworkers saying to NOT use anything with latex for cabinets, bookshelves, or anything that might ever get bumped. The latex will always stay "soft" even though it is an enamel.

So we will see what it looks like tomorrow, but I have a feeling that this will be a disappointment in the end. Sure, I could sand it back down to primer and get different paint, but at this point, I just want to finish it. It will never be seen anyway, and I did learn a lot from this build anyway. I just need to move on to other things that my wife says have been getting neglected lately.

Here are a couple of shots of the wet and just rolled over 1st coat. They did dry a little better. I will take some additional pictures tomorrow when things are dry and I can get more natural light on it to get a better photo. So anyway, the 1st rolled coat photos:



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http://ht.buol.us
M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394933 - 07/07/13 02:07 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4424
Loc: Marion, IA
OK. So it is 1am and I decided to take a couple of pictures with it more dry. This will still need another good coat yet and then I will bring it inside to get out of the humidity, but that will happen this afternoon after some sleep, church, and lunch...

So here are some "dry" 2nd roller coat photos. You can see in the 2nd picture in particular (with the cutout for the plate amp) that it really needs another coat. The rest of the sub doesn't have the primer showing through like that, but again, I wanted to go with some thinner coats instead of one or two heavy ones.





And here is a REALLY close picture of the texture. It actually looks a LOT worse in the photo since there is no sense of scale.

Oh, and the color is off too. It is definitely black.

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http://ht.buol.us
M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394935 - 07/07/13 02:57 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
tomtuttle Offline
axiomite

Registered: 06/20/03
Posts: 8278
Loc: Tacoma
Well, I think you've pretty much convinced me not to build a subwoofer and not to ever try to paint anything. So, thanks. wink
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#394946 - 07/07/13 08:18 PM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
medic8r Offline
axiomite

Registered: 02/05/06
Posts: 6386
Loc: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Cheers, Tom! Good one.

Nick, I admire your effort both in the project and the documentation and analysis of said project.
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#394953 - 07/08/13 12:49 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4424
Loc: Marion, IA
OK. Today's update. I moved things back inside on the dining room table (my wife is not happy, but tolerating me at this point) so that the humid garage wouldn't hinder the curing process.

Anyway, I put the final coat on the bottom of the sub, let it dry, and then attached the feet and gave them a final coat as well. After letting that dry, I started adding the acoustical foam to the inside of the bottom half of the sub cabinet using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. Worked great, although if anyone else does so, be aware that the second that the foam touched the Super 77 that was sprayed on the interior, it will stick...A LOT.

I also took some extra bolts and washers and then used some drops of wood glue on the T-Nuts, and used the bolts to pull the t-nuts into place. All I really need is for the t-nuts to stay put when it is time to attach the woofer.

Tomorrow I will add some paint to the rim around where the woofer will go as I am just noticing now (as I look at the pictures) that I think that some of the white primer will show. Then I will paint the rest of the cabinet with a final coat, and then add the foam to the other half. I will let things sit and cure for at least 2 days to make sure that everything is solid.

Then on Wednesday I will add the port tube, woofer, and amp. Woohoo. Getting close.

Anyway, a couple of pictures showing some of the progress from today.




_________________________
http://ht.buol.us
M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394966 - 07/09/13 12:40 AM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
nickbuol Offline
connoisseur

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 4424
Loc: Marion, IA
Tonight I put on the final coat of paint on the sides and top. I also painted the center "rings" where the woofer and port tube will go just to make sure that the white primer doesn't show once they are installed.

So first up is the picture of the sub minus the amp, woofer, port tube, and top half of the inside's foam.

The different level of "shine" in the picture is because it is just starting to dry.



Here it is with the 17" long, 4" ID port tube.



I might take an inch or two off of the feet, but want to see how it looks once in its final spot. The funny thing is that they are pretty "stout" feet, but when you put them on the main sub box, they look tall and skinny. I may change them out altogether for something way thicker and shorter. I only paid $2 a piece and they just screw on to the bottom.

Maybe something like one of these:

This one is 4" tall


This one is 3.5" tall


The ones I have now are 6" tall.

Tomorrow I will put the foam in the top half, glue the port together in place, and mount the woofer.

Wednesday I will attach the port tube and connect and attach the plate amp with the special screws I ordered last night from Parts Express. I thought that I ordered them back when I bought the woofer and stuff, but I certainly couldn't find them, so I had to order them again. $2.75 for the screws, $10 for shipping to get them here by Wednesday. crazy
_________________________
http://ht.buol.us
M60s, VP180, VP150, QS8s, SVS 20-39PCi, HTPC, JVC RS45, Onkyo TX-NR709, Shakers

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#394974 - 07/09/13 02:32 PM Re: Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere [Re: nickbuol]
pmbuko Offline
shareholder in the making

Registered: 04/02/03
Posts: 16267
Loc: Leesburg, Virginia
Are we there yet? laugh

Your sub is looking mighty fine. You know you done good when the only thing bothering you about the project is the size and length of the feet. smile Since the rest of the cabinet has no radiused angles, I think the second, truncated pyramid legs would look better than the curved first one.
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"I wish I had documented more…" said nobody on their death bed, ever.

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