So many newbies, so many questions...
1. Programing the remote. Should I use the direct code entry or the IR learning method? The HK instructions suggest that there may be more functions available by using the learning nethod??
2. Night mode...gimik??
3. Intial x-over setting: 80,100,120? Speakers: M22Ti mains, VP-150, QS8's, M2i back channal, EP175 sub
4. ExSet...Has anyone used this or is Radio Shack the destination of choice?
5. Set up: Input Vid1 is an S-video from the cable box, with digital coax audio. I also use component video from the cable box to the Vid2 input. Can they share the coax1 input for audio? The reason for 2 connections, is, the picture quality degrades on the analog and digital channals using the component outs, and for some unexplained reason does not using the S-video cable...
If I cannot share coax1, can i use a y-connector from the cable box to the AVE-525 coax 1&2, setting vid1(S-video) to coax1, and vid2(component) to coax2???
6. Another connection? If I use component connections for DVD & vid2(cable box), does that leave vid1 and vid3 open for use with S-video cable? Should I use vid3 for the S-video connection from the cable box...Leaving vid1 for future VCR/DVR?
7. Is there anyone out there, with a HK 525 or the like, who would like to share a favorite macro...This would be very helpful.
Sorry for sooo many questions...Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Gary
I don't have the answers, but I am bumping this to the top because I would like the answers. I just ordered one of these.
As to number 1, I didn't find the remote to be very useful as a universal. The play/rewind/etc buttons are too small and inconveniently located. In any case, the learning method does let you map things to whatever key you want, so that's what they mean. It works, but then you have to remember where everything is. Also, you have to match up the video sources to what H/K thinks they should be. IE TV has to be video2, VCR has to be video 1, even if you never, ever use the VCR (that is, if you want to program it by direct coede entry)
2. Haven't used it, but it seems to essentially be a timer. Gimmick.
3. I'd say try it at 80 Hz, and see how it is. I've got mine set at that, but I don't have the same speakers.
4. The EzSet sounds cool, but it won't calibrate a subwoofer. Haven't really used it, since I don't have surround sound. Give it a shot! I believe Alan likes it a lot.
5. I believe you can designate what inputs go together in the OSD. Haven't tried anything like that.
6. Vid1 and Vid3 would be open, afaik. I don't see why they wouldn't be.
7. The macros don't work too well. I haven't been able to get power ons to work. Gave up after extreme frustration with the remote.
Anyway, I do really, really like the 525. I just hate the remote.
Ken
I don't understand how the signal out from the cable box can be improved by using s-video or component hookups. The signal has travelled many miles on coax and would seem limited to whatever capabilities that wire has.
Why not just run coax all the way to the TV for your cable signal and save the s-video and component cables for DVD and VCR connections?
I have a very similar setup, the only difference being the Hsu VTF-2 instead of the Axiom sub and no back channel. I set the crossover levels to 80Hz and set the speaker level at 10 for the fronts and the center.
I have had a lot of trouble with setting up macros. For some reason some steps are just not done, especially the souce switching steps on the reciever. I finally gave up.
EZset is great. At least I set it with EZset and slightly modified on it. I did not use sound level meter.
I connected my components directly to the TV. One because I did not want to spend on additional component cables and the worry about signal degrading.
The remote learns well and even though I put in the code for the brand, some buttons did not work. I used the learn function.
Other than the problems with the remote, the receiver itself is great. You will be happy.
Night mode is actually not a gimmick. It works best when listening at low volumes. What it does is make softer sounds louder and louder sounds softer, bringing the overall sound to a more constant level.
This can be handy when you're watching a movie late at night and don't want explosions to wake your neighbors/housemates/kids etc. It should also make it so that you can hear whispered dialogue without having to boost the volume for those passages.
I personally never use the feature (my Onkyo has it), but it may be a life-saver after the baby arrives.
Hi Gary,
1. It's faster to use the direct code entry, though it won't give you all the options.
2. Night mode typically means that dynamic compression is applied to the Dolby Digital sound track. This means you can keep the volume at a lower level and still hear the dialog, thus it's called "night mode." I believe it's a feature of dolby digital, so it doesn't do anything for other types of sound.
3. Your best bet is generally to use 80Hz for a crossover all around. Anything higher makes the sub much more easily localizable (it sounds like it's coming from the corner).
4. EZset may do a decent job, but it's probably worth double checking with a sound meter.
5. Don't know about reusing digital ins, but your problem may be that the component video exposes all the flaws of the signal. My digital cable quality is very blocky, even over composite video.
6. Sounds correct.
7. My apartment isn't big enough for surround sound!
-Cooper
Unless you absolutely need vid switching with the 525, connect directly to the TV as others have stated.
As for the remote, who doesn't have a good universal these days?
My trusty JP-1 Rat shack 1994 controls my Sony RPTV, AVR-525, Panny RP81 DVD changer, Sony DirecTivo and RCA vcr. I've got a macro setup to properly turn the appropriate TV input on and select the appropriate audio input for the 525 depending on what source I want to use. One touch turn on, one touch turn off.
Frank
Oh boy do I need a good universal with macros. My wife still won't let me forget that "it was easeir before you got this thing! You said it would be easier after you got it!" Well, it is easier. For me. I don't have to switch cables to watch a DVD now....
"Oh boy do I need a good universal with macros. My wife still won't let me forget that "it was easeir before you got this thing! You said it would be easier after you got it!" Well, it is easier. For me. I don't have to switch cables to watch a DVD now.... "
Check out
http://www.remotecentral.com for tons of remote information.
I bought a Hometheater Master MX500 a year ago for about $130 if I remember correctly, and have been very happy with it. Here's a review of it if you're interested:
http://www.remotecentral.com/mx500/index.html
Looks cool. I was kind of thinking about the Harmony remotes.
I'd highly recommend the Pronto TSU-3000 so long as you either never upgrade from version 1.0 of their software to 1.2 or you use 1.2 from the beginning (don't ask). It's a very cool remote and I really dig being able to specify every inch of my interface, tailoring it to exactly how I want to use it.
I'd like TiVo to make a universal remote. That thing has the best remote I've ever used. It is also difficult to program into other remotes...
The Prontos are very nice. I havent seen the 3000 yet though. I had thought about getting one of those but decided to go with a remote with hard buttons so I could change channels and stuff without having to look at it. Just personal preference I suppose
The bad thing about the MX500 is that you cant program it with your PC. However, a guy that frequents the Hometheater Master forums on RemoteCentral developed a cable and software that he sells for like $90 or so so that you can program it with your PC. Maybe one of these days Ill get that to make it easier to program...
In reply to:
I havent seen the 3000 yet though. I had thought about getting one of those but decided to go with a remote with hard buttons so I could change channels and stuff without having to look at it.
That's the point of the 3000. It offers five hard buttons on the right of the screen for channel +/-, volume +/- and mute by default, one on the left to light the screen and two on the left to scroll through pages, a large directional pad in the middle below the screen and four buttons around that with icons that are easy to identify for your fingers. The screen itself is also closer to blue than any other "blue touchscreen" I've seen (all of which are invariably green).
Of course, it's also a good $100 more BEFORE you buy the docking cradle.
Thank you all for your advice and help. I have been out of town for the last week and unable to respond. I am now in the middle of hanging speakers and installing the "Home theater"
I will post pics when complete! Thank you again...A new all-in-one remote is the next purchase