Hopefully this works..regarding wall mounting of M22 fronts.

I tried using a Vogel mount purchased from lowes..but it didnt work out too well..speakers would not remain perfectly plumb. Therefore I elected to install the FMB and keep the originals in place (to avoid having to fix the wall). The FMB is great, wish I had gotten those in the first place!!

Check out the web page for some pics I took:

http://home.comcast.net/~jtm60/HTPICS.html

That looks great!

This is my first post here. I am about to pull the trigger on some M22tis, QS8s and either a VP100 or VP150. Seeing your picure makes it clear I should order the brackets as well.

I noticed on the instructions page for mounting the brackets that it says to mount it on stud. While this is obviously the best option, what if you don't have a stud near where you want the speaker? Did you run into this issue?

-Sean

I think someone mentioned that it's best to not try and mount these speakers without something solid to put them into. They're just too heavy to be supported by drywall. I'm pretty sure I read that here one day.

-Nick

That is probably the case. But what are the odds of having two studs equally spaced on each side of your screen?

It wouldn't be pretty, but would mounting a 2x4 across a stud and then mounting the speaker to the 2x4 work?

-Sean

Actually, I was going to suggest something like that. It would give you enough strength as it would be anchored on to the studs. I guess the key would be finding a way to make it inconspicuous. IF you had access to the wall from behind I guess you could mount wood framing that way too. Then you could just drill into it like it was a stud. I can imagine what I'm getting at, but I might not be explaining it very well.

-Nick

I understand exactly what you are getting at. It would just require some drywalling and painting to cover up your work.

Then again, depending on where my studs are, I may just paint small pieces of a 2x4 and see how it works. The M22ti is only 16 pounds.

-Sean

what does a stud look like

would using the 2x4 feature be a must if i dont have a stud?

A stud is a vertical 2x4. The 2" side is what the dryawall touches.

Since the part of the FMB that attaches to the wall is pretty small, and the weight of Axiom speakers is pretty heavy, you MUST attach them either to a stud or or to something much sturdier than drywall.

A stud is a 2x4 or something similar that is in the wall behind the drywall. Generally you can't visually tell where they are. Sometimes you can tell by knocking and listening for a sound difference. You can also buy a stud finder that will sense a difference in density and let you know where it is.

As for it being necessary to mount the full metal bracket on a stud, I am not sure. The prudent thing would be to use a stud. I also wonder if some sort of drywall anchor would work, but I have no idea.

-Sean

You can also use something (3/4" wood or plywood) roughly the size of the back baffle of the M22 mounted vertically to the drywall with good drywall anchors near the corners of the board . The FMB load will then be spread over a larger area and a minimum of 4 anchors. This would allow the reinforcing board to be placed anywhere and to "hide" behind the speakers. Properly sized, shaped and finished this could be quite attractive. The strongest type of drywall anchors will be molly bolts which have spring loaded metal clips which fold to go through a hole in the drywall and then pop open to be pulled flat against the back of the drywall when the screw is tightened. Mollies can only be used once because the spring clip will fall inside the wall when the bolt is removed again. You must also put the bolts through whatever you are fastening to the wall before you push the bolts with the spring clips attached through the holes in the drywall. Get mollies with screws about 1"+ longer that the thickness of the drywall and the board. This can be done easily and cheaply with a trip to home depot and a few tools.

ok thanks.

After my install..I would tend to agree that the FMB's might dig into drywall (even if mounted directly into a stud), just based on the general design of the bracket and where it mounts to the speaker.

You could TRY mounting using molly bolt drywall screws, but I would recommend against it..I would want a stud to screw into for peace of mind.

If you look closely at my setup, you will see that my FMBs mount to a block of wood approx. .375" thick..the FMb is thru-bolted to the wall with drywall screws.

other than that, it looks like you have some drywall/carpentry work in your near future! No problem!! (cant see it from here )

jtm60,

Just to clarify, are the blocks of wood in your picture screwed into a stud just into the drywall using drywall screws?

Thanks,

Sean

The screws on my setup pass thru the block of wood, and go directly into a wall stud. You really need to catch a stud to mount these properly with the FMB.

Here is one other idea you might consider to try and minimize drywall work- If the FMB is going to fall between studs..

You could purchase two of those mounting kits (from home depot or something..) used to mount ceiling fans. The kit I am thinking of is a metal rod with threads, that allows it to unscrew and dig into 2 joists (when used properly), or maybe wall studs for our case here..you unthread the rod until it contacts the wall studs and digs in, but not so tight that it bows the studs. Then there is hardware that allows you to mount a recepticle box, typically used to house your wiring for the ceiling fan.

You just have to cut the hole such that the box fits thru, and then you screw it to the metal bar. THEN you could get a metal box cover ( or maybe make one out of some slightly heavier gauge steel)..drill it for the FMB, and bolt it up to the box you just installed.

Not as good has having a stud to mount to, but it will require minimal drywall cutting, and allow you some degree of freedom to move the location of the box/FMB within the studs, for centering purposes.

just an idea, have not ever seen it done this way