So, I've been to college. . .and graduated (got my diploma to prove it), but whenever I open my Denon 3808 manual I find myself constantly searching for pop-up tabs and scratch-n-sniff stickers because I feel like a complete dumb-dumb trying to decode it.

Do you guys know if there is a way to set up quick A/B speaker switching with the receiver? I want to hook up two pairs of speakers for a comparison, but I want to make sure I can level match them. I have a separate speaker switcher, but it doesn't have volume control. In the past I've been lucky and the speakers come out at the same dB level. I'm hoping the 3808 can perform such a function utilizing the second zone/amp thingy. . .

In the meantime, I'll just keep staring at the pictures in the manual. . .

good luck Sean, hope you figure out a way. I've run into the same problem with my Denon 2805. I'll use the A/B switch on my remote to go back/forth, but the levels don't match.. I've been looking at various speaker switches on Ebay with volume control, but your talking another $50 bucks.

I don't think there is Sean. Maybe by hooking one up to Zone 1 and another to Zone 2 and toggling between zones at the same volume level?

That's kinda how I'm thinking it might work, if it works at all. I suppose I'll have to drag everything out and hook things up and play around with it. It's funny, I've had a couple "cheap" receivers, which all had nifty A/B switches, albeit no separate volume control, but once I got into the 'spensive receivers, aka H/K 7200 and Denon 3808, no A/B switch. What gives?

I went through the exact same thought process about 2 months after I got the 3808. I thought for sure I must be missing it.

For $50 more than the $50 speaker switcher, you could get a fully functional Sherwood receiver with built in A/B switching. On the Sherwoods, you can even switch A to B via the remote control, so you wouldn't even have to get up to make the switch.

Aaaahh, I don't need another receiver!!!

I just moved an old Sony receiver to the downstairs living room. My H/K is still sleeping in the closet. Too many electronics I'm sitting on. . .

Maybe I'll just have to use my Sima speaker selector and deal with the volume difference objectively.

How the tables will turn when the robots take over....

Robot insurance is no joke. Get it while you can. . .

My old 1804 was wonderful for A/B switching. The 3808 not so much, which is what prompted me to look for switchers with volume controls, Phoenix Gold makes some, as does Sima, Niles Audio and bunch of others, but they are a bit pricey. The best thing you can do is run the zone 2 or 3 as secondary mains and switch between them, or just pick up a manual switcher, no volume controls for $20-$40.

Thanks, Jay. I'll just use my trusty manual switcher, I think. Hopefully the difference in volume won't be extreme.

How pricey? Which one would you buy?

Crutchfield was selling one that accepted 12 gauge wiring and was $350(?). The rest are in the $100-150 range for 2 channels and $200-300 for 2 channel dual input or 4 channel single input. I liked the one at Crutchfield, because it accepted the thicker wiring, but the price was way too much for me........right now.

Yeah, that's a little spendy. Maybe one of these days.

Since you have extra receivers around...

Why not run the source to both receivers and power one set off of each? You could get pretty exact with the level matching that way.

I know you'd be introducing another potentially significant variable to the chain, but sand is sand, right?

That's not a bad idea, Tom. Is it possible to split the signal from the CD player? What effect, if any, will that have on the sound?

The A/B switches are generally equivalent to hooking up speakers in parallel. I'm guessing with higher end receivers, they're anticipating that people might be using lower impedance speakers.

It will only sound half as good when split.

Good one.

Or, people who don't spend so much on a receiver can afford more speakers?

Some of the higher end switches (as well as local volume control knobs) have impedance matching options to increase the impedance knowing they could be run in parallel. You still split the power, but at least you won't overdrive your amp.