Can anyone recommend a 12V triggered power center or power plug that’s compatible with the EP-800 digital amplifier?
Apparently my power factor correcting Monster HTS 3500 MKII power center isn’t compatible with the digital amplifier in the EP-800. JC suggested I use an outlet with a switch on the wall, which I’m doing for the moment, but I’d like an automated solution to reduce the energy consumption of the EP-800. I’ve already left it running in one case and forgot to turn it on in another.
My EP-800 draws 24 watts in standby mode. This is a bit higher than the stated “under 10 watts” in the manual, but apparently exactly correct for the current version of the amplifier. Axiom apparently updated the amplifier to have it automatically drop to its lowest standby power level when there is no signal. This means the 12V trigger to the sub is now mostly unnecessary unless you get a warm fuzzy from having the LED go from green to red. The standby power draw in either case doesn’t change. Anyway, 24 watts 24/7 adds-up to a measureable increase in the electricity bill each month for no productive reason so I’m looking for an automated solution to turn it completely off when not in use.
Apparently my power factor correcting Monster HTS 3500 MKII power center isn’t compatible with the digital amplifier in the EP-800.
I take it you are trying to use a 12V trigger out from it or did you have some problems with the sub plugged into the HTS 3500? I have had my sub(not Axiom nor digital) plugged into my Belkin PF60 with out any problems.
Your present solution although not automated is the ultimate in power saving as the sub is completely off and not drawing anypower, I fear any sort of automated solution would be in standby mode and drawing somesort of power. I would suggest looking at changing the switch to an IR switch like for lighting this way it could controlled by your remote and the sub is turned on and off with the rest of the system.
Good idea, Jay. I'll probably want to do something like that for my subs.
Interesting idea about an IR lighting switch, Jay.
Any specific manufacturer suggestions? I'm not familar with that equipment.
I didn't try plugging the EP-800 into the electrical outlets on my HTS 3500, but the word from Axiom was that type of power conditioning equipment could damage the amp in the EP-800. I've been waiting too long to get a good sub to risk damaging it first thing. If anyone has first hand experience with the HTS 3500 and the EP-800 that would be helpful.
I'm already using the HTS 3500 for other equipment so I have some small standby power for that, but it was capable of switching off the outlets for the sub amplifier when not triggered by the reciever. Basically, it turned off the light switch automatically for me when I turned off the reciever.
I have that exact switch in my room and it works very well. I can also control it with my Harmony 1000.
If you have a Z-Wave compatible device, you can also look at these type of products:
http://www.aartech.ca/ha01c-zwave-receptacle-ha01.html.
The Lutron switch is pretty interesting. I might need that for the lights in my room.
I did find some 12V triggered outlets that are more what I was looking for. They aren’t exactly free, but they all should work well with the EP-800 or any device for that matter. Someone on the AudioCircle.com site asked basically the same question I did. The Xantech product specifies a standby current of 0.24W or almost exactly 1/10th the EP-800 standby current.
Russound ACT-1 Xantech AC1 Niles Audio AC-3
I have that exact switch in my room and it works very well. I can also control it with my Harmony 1000.
Ditto. I really like the delay feature. Great WOW factor for visitors who watch you put the remote down and THEN 15 seconds later the lights slowly die off.
Scott
I was going to suggest one of
these but I thought you wanted to have zero draw.
Hmm, another an interesting bit of hardware, Jakewash.
However, I do have the 12V trigger from my receiver. What I need is the AC outlet that can be switched by that trigger.
Couldn't you use an appropriately rated 12v driven power relay? If the 12V trigger can't supply the power needed by a relay then maybe an AC driven relay and plug it into the switched outlets on your AVR?
Interesting that JC mentions possible damage to the EP800 when it is fed from a Monster HTS 3500.
I saw the manual for the EP800 is concerned with over voltage from power conditioners. Suppose you should follow the advice, but man, a 2K+ piece of equipement on the main AC line makes me uneasy......
Nice sub by the way. I am jealous.
Hi Montclair,
Since there were changes on all Axiom aubwoofers which were done by our new engineer, Andrew. I subsequentially asked him a clarification regrading the use of power conditioners with the revamped subwoofer amplifiers. I was told the only issue would be a possible power restriction under peak demands. No damages will be done to the subwoofer ampliifier.
Montclair,
I can only see the HTS 3600 on the Monster site, but do you have a bank of "High Current" outlets on the back of your 3500?
I use a Belkin PF60 for my PC/Printer and it has a plug bank for high current devices. In the PF60's high current outlet, no chokes are used for filtering, only capacitors.
On my Samsung HLT6189s DLP TV, there was a marked difference in brightness when I had the TV plugged into the PF60's video filter plug bank instead of the high current one. I relegated my Belkin to PC duty and bought filtering that was was non current limiting.
JC - You answered some length questions re:the FMB mount last week. I placed my Axiom order (10107598) on Thursday. Thank you.
Hi Wbedford,
It is always a pleasure to be of assistance; I'm glad that I was able to help you out. I thnak you for your order; it will ship around Oct. 12th.
JC,
Thanks for checking that detail on the Axiom sub amplifiers. That's very helpful information.
Webford,
Yes, the HTS 3500 has some 12V triggered high-current amplifier outlets. The description of your PF60 high current outlets sounds similar to the Monster description of the high current outlets. Of course in Monster’s case, they make the murky statement that they have power factor correction (i.e. capacitors) in those outlets. I ran a pair of optimistically rated 500W sub’s on those outlets before so it sounds like I can use them again for the EP800.
I’m really liking the EP800. It’s doing a good job of filling the 10k cubic feet of space in my great room and adjoining spaces.
Montclair,
The Mrs will not approve an EP800 (too big). Awesome sub though. I would love to hear it in action...
JC - Thanks for the update.