I'm starting my basement remodeling project, with the home theater as my main focus. I'll be using a projector, with a DVD player and high definition satellite receiver (express vu 6100) as sources. Many people state that cables do matter wrt long runs for video, therefore I want to ensure I make the proper choices (it’ll be ~ 30ft run). My 6100 has a DVI connection, and it's my understanding this will yield the best picture. I'm still not sure what DVD player or projector I'll be getting, but I'm guessing I'll likely run a component and an HDMI (in addition to the aforementioned DVI) between the component rack and the projector. Any suggestions for cables that won't cost me huge $$$$ but perform well? What should I look for in a good cable? My head is still spinning form Bren's responses to the last 'cable' question; I'm looking forward to his response.

Thanks.

Component cables... get some good, shielded 75ohm rated cables - or if you're handy with a soldering iron, get connectors and bulk cable and make them the right length.

HDMI cables - buy premade cable at the right (or close) length... the connectors remind me way too much of Centronics printer cables and after having made a few of those by hand... *shivers* HDMI is suggested to be less than a 45ft (15m) run, so you should be well within spec for standard copper with no repeaters/amps.

You'll be cavity installing this stuff, I assume... use cable clips (like these - RadShack 278-1661) to hang the cable, don't use staples, way too easy to crush the wire. Cross AC runs at 90 degrees when possible, stay away from lights with dimmers and fluorescent ballasts, leave as much room between cables as possible (perhaps using the right side of one joist for the HDMI, and spacing the components (assuming you use three separate cables) across the left side of the next - leaves them in the same cavity, yet they're physically apart)

If you plan on permanently boxing in the area (ie: drywall ceiling instead of acoustic tile), maybe throw up anything extra you might think you'll need later... even if it's just RG6 coax to use as a fish line later.

Oh, and one other thing because it comes up semi-frequently (like everytime someone asks me about signal wiring for a reno project) - plenum-rated cable is not necessary for home installation. What it means is that if the cable catches fire, it won't release noxious fumes. It's used in commercial installations where, if a floor of a building burns, all the cable up in a cable tray (or worse, routed through an air plenum) would melt and let off fumes that would incapacitate people before they got a chance to exit the building.

Bren R.

I'm just about wrapping up my total basement remodeling project. Part of the basement includes a new HT room. My current projector, the Sanyo Z2, has a DVI connection and my DVD player, the Panasonic S97S HDMI upconverting player, has HDMI. Both DVI and HDMI carry the digital video signal, and HDMI also adds audio for people that have TV's with HDMI. For projectors you really don't need to worry about it. I bought a 25ft HDMItoDVI cable and a 25ft Component cable from http://www.monoprice.com after talking to many people on AVSforum that said the prices are fabulous and the quality is excellent. I think I paid around $30-40 a piece for them. So far the picture quality is excellant with no problems whatsoever. You can pay a lot more from Blue Jeans Cable, Monster, etc... however you don't need to, just watch out for some of the places on Ebay, they can be a rip off.

Randy

Dan, if as you say you get a player with a HDMI output and a projector with a HDMI input you'll want a HDMI/HDMI cable to connect them. For the length that you mention it'd be a good idea to use the thicker, lower loss 24ga cable rather than the 28ga or 30ga cables also available. This is available for a reaonable price here for example and there's no need to spend hundreds of dollars on HDMI cables. For the DVI output of the satellite tuner to the HDMI input of the projector you'd want a DVI/HDMI cable which is available for a similar price.

I will be running the wires in the wall/ceiling cavity as you suspected. I was aware of the benefit of crossing electrical at 90 degrees, but not re keeping a space between the video feeds, why is this important? I'm 90% sure I'll be drywalling the ceiling, the house is a split entry bungalow that we built last September. I just don't like the look of drop ceiling especially considering the basement is wide open, and immediately visible upon entering the house. As such, I plan to run a 2" conduit (central vac pipe, plumbing pipe... whatever's cheapest) and I'll feed a double length wire into the conduit to ease future expansion.

Thanks for the website tip. I've been to a few stores, just looking for a DVI/DVI to connect my sat receiver to my 27" LCD. Even Wallyworld wants > $40CAD for a 3' cable! On a side note, I'm considering the Z3... or a Z4 if it comes out soon.

Thanks JohnK. What minimum gauge do you suggest for component video cable? Does your 24ga recommendation also hold true for DVI (I assume it does?)

In reply to:

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but not re keeping a space between the video feeds, why is this important?

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It's really not... just a matter of "best practice" - keeping as much distance as is possible between any signal wire. If you're running a conduit, ease of pulling wire is more important than any possible benefit of separating the runs.

Bren R.

Dan, it depends on the distance of the run, and 30ga(which many HDMI cables are)is fine up to about 15 feet. 28ga is usually okay for 20-25 feet, but longer than that and it'd be safer to use 24ga, as in the source that I linked(note that a 3' DVI is about $16). Yes, it also applies to DVI; the connectors are different, but DVI and HDMI are electronically identical(except that the HDMI format can carry audio)and no conversion or other processing occurs between the two.

Thanks for everyone’s help.
Nothing other than gauge to look at for video cables?

I'll take that as a no.