Hope some of you can help. I have been reading hundreds of reviews all over the net on these products. I'm more confused than when I was looking for speakers.

Here is what I understand:

AVIA - Is the easiest to navigate. Explanations for all tests are very clear, even for the beginner. Comes with Red, Blue, Green test cards. The negatives I'm hearing is that it is old, manufactured in 1999. There is nothing for today's technologies like LCD, DLP, etc... it is based on CRT's only. Also, nothing for the HD world or HDMI/DVI. Most expensive.

SV - Basically a stripped down version of Avia, slighly newer, but very basic.

DVE - The most complete of the three. Covers widescreen, HD, etc... Very Very confusing to navigate through. No instructions for many of the tests. Only comes with the blue filter card. Least expensive over Avia.

Based on that my primary use for this will be to adjust my Front Projector with is LCD technology, what do you all recommend. I've used the THX Calibration tools on some disks and that has seemed to help, but I think I can do better.

I wish Avia would come out with a newer version. I know they have a pro series, but that is $400 smackers.

Any help would be appreciated...

Randy

My DVE has a single card with all 3 filters (red, green, blue).

Much has been made of a perceived problem with DVE's subwoofer test tone levels. Here is the manufacturer's explanation.

Setting Subwoofer (often mistakenly called 'LFE') Levels: At what level should the LFE channel be set in the Dolby Digital 5.1 audio system? During system setup you need to adjust the subwoofer level, not the LFE level. The information from the LFE channel will generally be sent to your subwoofer, often along with the low frequency signals from all other channels, but you don't generally adjust the LFE level itself. What you do adjust is the level of the subwoofer relative to the other channels so that they are at the same level at the listening position. Don’t forget to move the meter back and forth, as shown in the video, and take an average of what you read. Once all of the channels are equal in level, the main volume control can be set for the +75 dB reference level called out in the program.

Confusion has come up about setting this level because the LFE channel in the Dolby Digital 5.1 system is actually recorded 10 dB below the levels of the other five channels of audio. This is done to increase the 'headroom' available to large signals in the LFE track. Your Dolby processor will take care of this level offset for you automatically, it is not something you should be concerned with during system calibration.

Problems setting up both Dolby Pro-Logic and Dolby Digital 5.1 levels for bass information: When I check the subwoofer level between the calibration for Dolby Pro-Logic and Dolby Digital 5.1 (AC-3) there is a 10 dB difference in the subwoofer level. What’s wrong? Why is this happening? Low bass information is recorded at 'normal' levels in the Pro-Logic system and 10 dB below 'normal' in the LFE channel of the Dolby Digital 5.1 system. There are a number of early generation audio processors that either don’t have enough memory to independently set up bass levels in each system or don't readily allow access to that memory to the average owner. We’ve had a large number of reports of subwoofer level being off by 10 dB when switching between the two forms of Dolby Surround audio. Most audio processors will take care of this difference between the two systems for you automatically. If you find that it is a problem in your audio system, we strongly suggest that you carefully read the owner’s manual for the audio processor. Look for an ability to independently set the bass level in each of the two Dolby systems. If you can’t find the help you need there, contact your dealer or the manufacturer of the product.

My DVE disk came with the card with three color filters as well. My major gripe is like what you have researched. Navigation is a pain and the explanations are way to drawn out. What DVE needs is an option to bypass the "history of grayscale and S-video" and just tell you what to adjust, what to look for, and how to do it. Then provide and after test with trouble shooting tips. The length of the DVD could be a 1/4 of the length. It's just ridiculous.

hi guys, sirquack i have the same projector and my color calibration is the one who came whit the projector.I dont touch any color or contrast, the picture seem to be alright for me but !!! maybe it can be better, so i just want to know what is your setting after you do it whit your THX calibration tools. thank you

I'll have to check the next time I fire up the Z2, I used to use the built in Cinema mode, but now use one of the Customer menu settings so I can save my changes. If I recall for Component hookup, I think it is like this:

Contrast -20
Brightness -3
Sharpness -5
Gamma +5
Red, Blue, Green all set to 0
Tint 0
Auto Grayscale turned Off
I run the lamp mode in low mode, that way the fan is quieter and my basement is totally light controlled so I don't need hi mode.

I have the apeture adjustment on the lens to about half way position.

I don't have the THX Blue glasses so I have to skip the Blue Letter test.

For HDMI, it is pretty much the same, however, I lower my Contrast even lower, around -28, and set the Gamma to +7, and Sharpness to -7.

Part of the problem is that my Panasonic S97S DVD player also has all of these settings, so I never know which ones to adjust

THANK YOU SIRQUACK I TRY IT THIS ARTERNOON. , my lens is all open, run it low mode but after 25 minute the second fan to cold down the Z2, i call sanyo and they said i have to send the projector for a update ,because the second fan dont suppose to stay all the time after they start.and some probleme whit the lens shift.

I've been reading up on the Z4, and I want one real bad

me toon for now z2 is fine for us. wait for Z8 Z9 Z10 god!!