In sending Amie a PM, who touched base with Ian, they said the new 350(s) would blend nicely with a 600. The best setup is identical subs, but the more woof the better, no matter what brand.

Also, RickF, he said you can hook a 350 up to the line-out on a 600. Not sure why Brent would say differently.

Another reason I'm considering 2 350v3's is because of the freq range up to 150hz, where the 500 has the brickwall at 100hz. Might help fill in the dip I was getting above 100hz in my graphs?

I have 2 10-inch sealed subs on order from AV123. I plan on first trying them with the EP500 before moving them to 2 channel duty with my M3 systems.

Because of the new size of the enclosure the tuning frequency (Fb) of the 350v3 sub should be reasonably close to that of the 500/600 so it should mesh reasonably well with the larger EP subs. Generally speaking, the more Fb differ the tougher it is to get them blended with each other.

Randy, he didn't say they could not be connected together ... he said they would probably be way mismatched. I believe he also stated that he, at one point had an older version EP350 connected with his 600 in a 2500cf(?) room and the 600 so overpowered the 350 that the addition of the old 350 wasn't worth the effort. Maybe the new 350v3 will be a better match. I believe this was Brent telling me this, again ... I *could* be wrong with the name.

I forgot that you jumped on that special. That should be a great two-channel set up. Where do you plan on placing the subs?

When I ran two subs in my previous two channel system I preferred the subs right next to the main speakers. Didn't like them so much space out around the room. That's just me, though.

Andrew, since the sound at these very low frequencies is essentially omni-directional, the large furniture items that you mention shouldn't have a significant effect on the cancellation factor.

This is kind of a crazy question, but has anyone mounted a sub up on a wall, near the ceiling? Of course you would have to have a sturdy shelf or chain/rope suspending it to the 2x6's.

The reason I ask is because if I get a second sub and place it on the rear wall directly opposite my front sub according to the Harmon White Paper, it would be where the walkout door is, however, I have plenty of room above the door since we have 9ft ceilings. It might be interesting how well it works.

I could see it working, but more likely on a shelf of some sort. Wouldn't the driver movement cause it to rattle chains?

I suppose your right about the chains. I'm pretty sure it could be done as I would be going right into the 2x6's of our exterior wall. I'd probably try using two ladders to test it before I tried figuring out how to mount it.