Ken I have two Rigid vacs, neither were expensive. Under $100. I used the piss out of one when I was building my house. Out in the rain, dropped it twenty feet once, and it took more trips down stairs that I can recall. Plus, the damn things will suck the paint off a car - OK an exaggeration...

If you bought one of those silly direct drive saws (non-worm), turn it around. I HATE those F-ing things. They are horrible for kick back and downright dangerous for lumber. The only ones worth having are the little 5"'ers for ripping sheet goods down to a manageable size. The mag worm drives are pretty light. I can carry one around while walking walls installing top plates. The little extra weight helps as you just stand the board on edge, cut it vertically letting the saw's weight drive the cut.

This is what i got. Not sure whether it's direct drive or worm; nothing seems to say.

Judging from the shape of the worm drive saws, this ain't one. Judging from the price, those are going to have to wait.

Isn't that the one that has a reputation for blowing up in a fireball and horribly scarring the user?

Anyone?

+1 to Ridged vaccs. I replaced an aging Shop Vac brand and it has been a much better unit. I don't recall the model but it didn't have Mark's little bicycle basket on it. I also recall that he changed his to wicker anyways so his is not exactly like the photo.

Hey!

It's not like I installed the little bulb horn!

At first....

For the cedar shingles, I've done a lot of that over the years. It's best to use a nail with a large flat head. This means you likely can't find ones that will fit in an air nailer that are suitable. Sorry, but for this job, you can't beat a good old fashioned hammer. I've watched contractors use air nailers and it seems they spend more time fidgeting with the pressure so as to not split the shingles, than actually shingling. On the plus side though, you will have lots of split kindling lying around for campfires.

At many points, like on the top couple of rows or when you come up to windows and things, you will be faced with making a number of smaller shingles. Traditionally, you measure then score it with a very sharp knife and snap it in two. This takes practice but you will quickly get the hang of it. Thinner sections will easily cut straight through.

However, a good that hint I will pass on is that if you happen to be able to keep a portable table saw handy then you can speed this up a lot. Measure one, use it to set the fence on the table saw and then you can cut a bunch exactly the same length with little effort. Just don't cut too many at a time. Things are rarely as square as you would think and so you may need to adjust the length now and then. I also waste less shingles this way because I have not perfected the score and snap like the 'old folks'.

My last bit of advice, spend a bit extra on a good, comfortable nail pouch. You will be wearing it a LOT.

Easy work but long and repetitive. However, in my opinion, you can't beat the comforting look of a cedar shingled home.

LOL, Mark!

Thanks Andrew, that really helps. I'll forgo the nailer and do it the old fashioned way - here I come fat thumb!!! I already have the nail pouch, it was just more of a screw pouch from doing my decking.

I have also been advised to double up on the bottom row. I assume this is to make sure all seams are covered with no leak through to the wall, is that correct? Does having the bottom row twice as thick cause any issues with laying the next row?

Bummer, you bought the one saw I'd have done my best to convince you not to buy. Well when you do use it, just be slow and careful and don't let the blade bind up on you by trying to cut anything but a very straight cut or unsupported wood, or it will kick back towards you in an attempt to cut your arm off.

And THEN comes the fireball.

Don't use eye protection- the fireball will sear it to your face.

Nah, really, you'll be fine.

Probably.

Well, maybe "probably" is overstating it, but you'll possibly be fine.