A riving knife, sitting lower than the top of the blade, can also bu used on non-through cuts.

I wonder if the saws will have multiple knives to make them more useable in the varied situations we put the saws through.

I have found these little splitters, anyone tried them?

Also saw this item which looks interesting, although I am not sure I could get used to running my hands right over the top of the blade, even though I know they are well away from it.

The GRRR-Ripper looks like a good idea, although it would be easy to make your own version of it.

I wouldn't use them. When you need a splitter, you REALLY need it and flimsy plastic things would not work IMHO. Just last week I was ripping some 5/4 oak with an attitude. I sure was glad I had my metal splitter.... The most popular splitter / guard mentioned most on the wood working forums seams to be the Shark Guard. You can buy the guard, splitter, ZCI or combination of all. I almost bought one, but liked the Biesmeyer better because it just clicks and in removes without tools and I hate gaurds in general. But the Beiz is only for Unisaws.

SharkGaurd…
http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php

I think the gripper would collect dust. Too much trouble to set it up. I make my own push sticks. They are just simple T-handled things made out of plywood with the handle about six inches high.

I also have board buddies, but don't use them very often because I can't use a push stick with them in place.

Really, but best defense is to carefully set up the fence to run about .005" out of parallel to the blade and just good old common sense. I set my table to blade with a dial indicator. I made a simple jig out of oak that is a T that the dial mounts to. I set the blade to miter as close to perfect as I can, then set the fence to the right miter to be .005” out in the rear. I also have a 10” plate that I use, but you can get away with using the blade. The plate can also be used as a sanding disk, and that’s usually what they call them when you go to order one.

Anyone work with veneer much?? I haven’t, just vinyl laminate. I imagine they are similar to work with, but maybe not??

I ask because I’m thinking about covering an EP 600 I have with Hickory veneer. I have Hickory hard wood floors and would like to put this sub in that room. The sub has Boston Cherry vinyl on it now. I think I can run a ROS over the case to rough it up a bit(after I pull everything off of it), then use contact cement to adhere the veneer and use a laminate trimmer to cut off the excess. Maybe sand the seams down a bit, then finish them.

Trying to navigate around the non-90 deg corners is going to be a bitch. I think Axiom groves the veneer somehow, then rolls it over the corners.

Any suggestions / ideas / insight would be appreciated before I tear into this thing.

Yep. Done that. Happy to help if you need it. The sub is more of what you are going for I think. [img][/img]

Go to this page and see what I did. Sorry, but the page is now a bit of a mess with the veneer project spread around. But let me know if you want to know more. Ribbon Striped Mahogany over black

I must have removed some of the project pics, but the sub was a black veneer before I did the project. Key detail I guess.

I have the micro splitters to which you refer. Second best thing to a riving knife. WTH???? Is everyone here a woodworker/finisher? And why aren't any of us working right now?

And remember, though it can look realy sharp painted and all smooth and shiny, MDF edges don't take kindly to much contact.

Anyone planning on no vinyl or veneer, be careful, Plus, Axiom's bare MDF option is just as much $$ as veneer (Wonder why???)

The way they build the speakers is that the vinyl is actually applied to the MDF, then they're folded. Bare MDF wouldn't have the vinyl, by definition, so it's probably a custom build.