That's probably where you need a good 'down draft' spray booth Charles, to keep the overspray from floating around and settling on the sprayed surfaces.

I really want to avoid going down the road of bags and equipment. Once I do, I’ll just end up spending a bunch of money on stuff I’ll rarely use. Heck, twenty years of woodworking and this is the first interest I’ve had in doing it. I plan to use a water based contact cement because I read that petroleum based can bleed through and mess with the finish – and I can’t find any iron on adhesive (I’d rather use that). I’m going to run a sander over the corners to sort of round them a bit. Then I plan to adhere the front first, working from the middle with a laminate roller, then ‘attempt’ to roll the laminate over the rounded corners without cracking it. I’ve played with it some, and it’s pretty pliable. I think I can do with without using veneer softener. I hope so anyway. I’ll need to make a template for the driver and air port out of ¼ MDF first so that I can use it re-rout those openings in the veneer. Well that’s the plan anyway. I got the 500’s hooked up and calibrated today (oh boy, oh wow!!) so I’ll start this project tomorrow. If you don’t hear back from me, then I’m pissed off and sanding the thing down to paint it black…..

Michael, have you checked out Better Bond Heat Lock Glue ?

I'm no expert, but based on my limited experience, I would advise not using a powered sander. I would try a real high grit paper or 00 steel wool by hand first. The veneer is so thin powered may piss you off early in the game. You are talking about a small total area to sand so no real time difference.



That sounds right. I did not make a template, and regret it as the fact was the worst part. I repeated that failure on my recent computer speakers - see how well I learn.

Be carefull using steel wool on your project if you are going to use water based stain or clear coat, it can cause tiny rust spots in your finish.

I clean with naptha after, but yes, you want to avoid rust. It messes with the imaging and shrings the 1st order reflection.

Everything you describe as your intended process will work, since I assume you're going to sand the corners of the MDF cabinet and not the veneer before applying. However, I'd take the advice and not use power at all. MDF can disappear really quickly in a pink cloud and there's not enough thinckness to powersand veneer. And I wouldn't go below 150grit for edge sanding after applying and trimming the veneer. (I use 180).

Also, I place cut, straighted coat hanger rods on my cemented substrate. Then posisition the veneer. Remove the rods one at a time as you roller your way up the surface.

We've seen your work. You will do an awesome job, no doubt.

I used a combination of ROS, block sanding and hand sanding. The dam port is glued together and I couldn't remove it. I had to sand it flush with the case and use wood filler. Just finished coating the cement. I'm waiting for it to dry, then the fun begins..... I'm committed now. This might have been a mistake.

Is it wrong for me to be a little excited by that air of uncertainty?

Pictures? Audio?

Looking forward to learning from your adventure, Mike.

Mistakes are temporary things. Mastery isn't never making any, it's being able to resolve them. Even if this goes south (I doubt it), you could still give 'em another go.

Besides, you're doing this for everyone. We all wanna know about this and you're the first guy ever at the end of the rope being lowered into the unexplored abyss.

You go. We are (safely) in rows behind you!