Not sure it this is a rant or I'm depressed about it or frustrated or what but for those whom my rant might 'possibly' help someday instead of bore, please read if you are planning a vacation to an ocean large open water area.

Friday, I took the day off to go kayak surfing as there was a north wind that brings big, fun waves to the beach on the other side of my bay. The radio had 'properly' announced dangerous surf conditions but like many Islanders, I grew up in the waves so those announcements tend to draw us to the beach instead of keep us away. I was also wearing a life jacket, had two friends with me and, most importantly.... I know what to do in a riptide or an undercurrent.

Every summer that I go play in the waves (swimming or boating,) you inevitably see some tourists (or unwary locals)who are also attracted to the big waves. No argument, it's fun and it's great to see them having a blast in the refreshing waves on a sunny day, but........!!!!!

Inevitably, somebody who thinks they are OK because they are a "strong swimmer" gets a little to close to where the waves are starting thier roll and poof! They are sucked under.

Most times this is just like a quick suck of your legs towards the ocean. You fall and it's gone almost as soon as it's starts and you quickly pop up, a little freaked out and with a little salt water cough as a reminder of what happened. Scary or fun, depending on the person.

However, other times, that pull can persist as the water under the surface is being sucked down and towards the ocean as the waves race to shore. "Undertow."

A little further back, now that you are in deep water, the current heading out to sea can be so close to the surface that you can not swim to shore, even on the surface. "Riptide".

What many people, who are not used to the Ocean, don't realize is that even a "strong swimmer" can not swim against this current, if it's strong enough. When the Ocean wants to pull you out, it Wins!!

If you know what you are doing, there is minimal danger.

--> An undertow is like a spinning tube of water. If you don't fight it, you will eventually pop back up somewhere. It might be suddenly over our head when you pop up, so be prepared for that but know you will pop up!

Obviously, your natural inclination will be to try and swim straight up to the surface. Even if you are just a foot or two under, you may not make it if you fight it. Relax, let it pull you under, out, wherever...knowing that it will release you in just a few seconds if you let it.

--> A riptide can be powerful and scary as the shore starts to get further away but it can't be everywhere. Do not swim directly towards the shore. You will tire out before the ocean does. Swim diagonally along the shoreline until it feels like it's gone. Eventually, you will reach it's end and it's usually not very far at all.

OK, why the rant now...

Friday, I had to paddle over to a couple caught in a riptide. They were inarguably strong swimmers but it was obvious that they were frantically trying to reach shore but they were actually moving away from it.

Because of the size of the waves, I thought it better to not get too close and just yell advice from a distance verses accidentally slamming thier heads with my kayak in a wave. They stayed pretty calm and followed my advice to follow me to the right and eventually the sand bar shape under the water changed enough that the riptide was gone. I followed them in and they were just winded but grateful as they realized they were getting nowhere trying to swim straight to shore.

I'm not saying I saved thier lives as they were in pretty good shape and they had at least changed to a 45 degree angle of attack to try and get closer to a shallow sandbar on the right so they would probably have been OK.

It's not the first time I had to go offer some advice to some swimmers in a riptide and usually that's all it takes. Only once did I ever feel like I had to rush to someone side and I threw her my life jacket to her, just in case, that time.

However, when I got home later that afternoon feeling pretty good about things, the evening news began with a story about a girl who got caught in a riptide on a another part of the Island. She drowned. This pretty much crushed my good mood.

I'm all about fun and adventure and I truly believe everyone has a right to accept thier own level of risk. However, to make that decision, you should know what you are doing. You may be a champion swimmer in a pool but swimming in the waves is not the same thing. It's a blast, so enjoy it if you dare but know what to do if you get caught in a current.

If you don't know or don't feel comfortable with the fact that you may have to submit yourself into being the ocean's toy for a few minutes before you can regain control, then don't swim in the waves.

Sorry for the long post. Just had to get it out of my system.


With great power comes Awesome irresponsibility.