Nick is spot on with how I did things pretty much. I did use resilient channel instead of clips and hat track, just because I could get it locally for $2 per 12' length. I used approx 70 lengths all said and done. I opted not to use green glue to save money. You must be careful during drywall install not to screw through the joists/studs. Clips and hat track make it harder to mess up. The site I am on right now has a resilient install going in and they did it like I did. Phew!

I made a resilient layout height template for my sidewalls and chalk lines on the ceiling for screwing later. I marked wall studs on floor with a marker to avoid. Then marked ceiling joist on drywalled walls with pencil to chalkline and avoid. We put in just enough screws to hold the sheets up at first to speed progress while I had a helper, then I went back and assaulted the walls and ceiling with a screw every 8" max. 2 per stud space (on channel between studs.)

I put the ceiling channel on 16" centers and put the perimeter runs about 2" off of the corners. The first ceiling layer had minimal screws and I calked seams between layers, focusing on the perimeter. Wear glasses, it drips. The second layer was screwed abundantly afterwards (securing both.) Ceiling and bulkheads get 2 layers and are done AFTER the walls are done with a channel setup. smile All cavities were packed lightly with insulation, and bulkheads were stuffed as well. Ducts should get insulation as well, supply and return vents should be supplied with insulated flex with 2 90 degree bends where possible.

Avoiding HD for drywall material will cut your costs by 40% including taxes and delivery as I experienced. Contact a supplier and take advantage of indoor delivery. Well worth it.

If you are going this route kudos to you! Welcome to the OCD club. laugh Congrats Matt!