Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion Technical Questions Who can solve this problem?

Ok, here I go on trying to explain this issue. I talked to the engineer so bare with me if I don't explain it properly.

My understanding was that these amps have voltage regulators that operated in a very high bandwidth (mhz). Over the years, they have had a few calls from people experiencing a similar "static" in their speakers from the amp.

One example that can cause this problem is microwave repeater towers in your area interfering with these higher frequency ranges on the regulators.

What he did to resolve the problem was to place a "cap" on the voltage regulator that basically changes or lowers the frequency bandwidth somewhat, so that it no longer receives the interference. He could not explain why by turning on the lights in the vicinity eliminated the static.

Anyway, the static is totally gone now and I can enjoy movies with the lights off.

In the future I have to make sure I mention this issue if I add additional modules to my chassis.

The reason they do not "cap" all of the amps sent out, is because in theory by lowering the frequency bandwidth, it would make it more susceptible for interferences. For whatever reason, I must live near something that the higher bandwidth won't work.

I do live close to an airport? hmmmmmmmm

Does it happen when the corn is growing, it could be an Iowa thing

Randy, I'm certainly glad to hear that your problem has been solved. Kudos to Emotiva for making things right.

Lonnie knows his $hit, that is for sure. Also being a former Certified Electrician, he said what some people mentioned above is incorrect about the neutral/ground bars. It is national code that the neutral and grounds go to the same bar and ultimately route to the ground outside. It is up to the electrician's style as to if they like to have a "clean look" and put the grounds on one side and the neutrals on the other. The strap at the bottom brings them togethor, so there is no difference, it is just a matter of installation preference.

Anyway, I'm not going to worry about it anymore, just ENJOY the tunes.

Link - page two, starting bottom left column and moving into the middle column on why it most certainly DOES break the NEC.

The two are connected (here at least) at the main breaker panel to protect 2-prong appliances, offering a path to ground if there is no 3rd prong on an appliance... the problem with bonding them at the bus bars is that:

A) You create new ground planes for every circuit in the house... without a common grounding point, you end up with different potential between different wire runs. Now, this naturally occurs anyway, since there is no effort ever to make sure every run in the house has the same resistance from end to end... but this aggrevates the problem.

B) From a safety standpoint, when a ground is activated (say a hot wire slips out of a screw on an outlet and hits the metal box)... in a correctly wired system, that voltage will be carried back to ground at the box, incorrectly bonded neutrals could provide a "least resistance" path back the other way, putting voltage back into the house on the neutral wire - now white & ground have a potential difference of 115VAC as well as black & ground... what's so bad about that? The black (hot) leads are protected by circuit breakers. Neutrals are never, EVER protected. Sure the faulted breaker will eventually trip, but maybe not before you get hurt. Also, looking at feeding back voltage through a neutral wire, you end up with yet another fun AC fact... the potential difference between two different hots is 240VAC, which can be lethal.

Bren R.

Okay Randy, apparently the light influence will forever remain a mystery. Enjoy, but watch those "bare" homophones.

You should watch a show on HGTV some night called Holmes on Homes. It is a Canadian Production, but to get to my point, he is pissed at minimal code requirements and contractors who use them to save money. hence the cable runs.
But, just because your house is newer doesn't mean some contractor didn't try to save a few $$ and time is money.

But, on issue I also had a hum from a HK sounded lie a bunch of bee's they told me it was my house wiring. I sent it back not once but 4 times and still had hum.
Finally they replaced it with a newer one and hum dissapeared. and I practically re-wired my living room and half the house.
try another amp at your house or take yours and the speakers to another place.
And the ground is a safty issue big time if a hot gets lose at least it will trip the circuit breaker. If the box and even the recepticle is NOT grounded and a hot wire gets lose who ever touches the appliance box just because amplified

I am not a electrician but, did take a first year apprentice course years ago.
And I was taught there and it was stressed NEVER put Nuetral wires and Graounding wires on the same buses. Actually I can be corrected but, I thought there was a Neutral bus bar and a seperate Grounding bar.
Neutral wiring still carries current after it passes through a appliance which takes it to the Neutral bar. Which I was always under the assumption that it was an isolated bar that is linked to the Neutral wire coming into the home and takes the load back to the Power company. The ground bus bar is wher all grounds tie into go to the grounding rod or water pipe if you are in a town.