Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion Home Theater M22 or In-Cabinet M60s?

Dave, welcome. If the M22s would fit the height of the shelves there wouldn't be an adverse effect on the dispersion characteristics as long as you didn't recess the M22s into the unit. The front of the M22s should protrude about 1/2" beyond the front edge of the shelf so that diffractions and reflections are minimized.

Thanks, JohnK -

It sounds like I can go with the M22s. It would certainly require a lot less effort on my part. As EFalardeau said, I could always return them if I was not satisfied. Adrian also suggested that the M22s would work. So it sounds like there's an Epic Grand Master setup in my future. Now to decide on finishes.

BTW - I'll definitely post pictures when I get everything set up.

Thanks everyone for your helpful advice!

As long as the M22's height is not an issue they will work great for your space and situation, looking forward to some pics of the system

I guess I'm a little late to the party. I just unboxed my T60's tonight.

They do come with a rubber pad on the bottom to help isolate from the cabinet. I plan on building my face frame in place, around the speaker, to get a good fit. They are heavy, and I think if I build the opening first, I'm going to have a hard time sliding it into place. There's about 1/2 lip all the way around for overlap.I will probably line the front edge behind the baffle with some thin weather stripping as well to keep it from rattling.

I got mine with black faces and black cloth just to keep it simple. you can get a paintable version, or a real wood version to stain to your liking, but it doubles the price.

It sounds like you're settled on the M22's, but I thought I would at least add my $0.02.

We'll need pictures and a review. This is the first time I've seen anyone on the forums with the in-cab speakers.

Hi rprice54 -

Thanks for the information. I haven't completely decided on M22s or T60s yet. I'm still waffling. I'd really appreciate knowing the exact measurements (height and width)of the portion behind the baffle, including the rubber pad. That would essentially be size of the opening in the face frame wouldn't it?

It looks from your photos like there's a portion of the baffle that does not have the black oak vinyl covering. I was thinking about installing them so the baffle would be proud of the face frame. From the photos, it looks like the bare portion would be exposed. I may have to paint the bare part.

What I had in mind is an insert that would go in the existing cabinet. It would hold the T60 to the outer side of each cabinet and then provide a set of narrower shelves on the inner side. No physical alterations to the cabinets would be necessary this way. See below:

If you can pull that one off, Dave, I think I might have to change my recommendation on the M22!!

Agreed, that would be very cool.

I may have neglected to mention that the existing shelves are removable. So it would be a simple matter of building a pair of inserts that would accommodate the T60s. At any rate, I'm going to look long and hard at this before I decide. I think this may be doable, but only if the dimensions on the 60s are right.

I'll keep y'all posted.

I think that diagram looks cool as hell! What is that wall unit made out of? If it's oak then I would say you'll probably be alright, it should be sturdy enough to absorb most/all of the rattles. If it's pine, then perhaps rattles could present themselves to be pesky. My vote goes for the in-cab T60's!