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Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
CatBrat #333911 01/08/11 05:21 PM
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Thanks, Cat. The main difference is that my cabinet is going to be on the opposite end of the wall from my TV, and the cable would have to be run through the bulkhead in the ceiling. This would require a 30-40 foot extension cord.


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Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
Ya_basta #333919 01/08/11 10:09 PM
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Apparently, what I'm supposed to be looking for is called a "power bridge". What I found and linked to in my previous post is what's supposed to be used.

I found this one at Monoprice, and I'll probably just get it because I also have to get some cables.

Could you guys please help me out with the appropriate cables I need in 50 ft lengths (always safer to go longer).I know nothing about what gauge of cable should be used for a given length.

Off the top of my head, I need the following-

-one HDMI cable
-Speaker wire
-one subwoofer cable

Is there anything else I should consider while I'm at it? This will be it for a while, but I didn't know if an extra HDMI cable or a component cable would be a good idea.

Yet again, thank you very much guys.

Cam

Edit-HA! I just noticed that the product in the link I posted a couple messages ago, is actually called Powerbridge. I'm an idiot! crazy

Last edited by wheelz999; 01/08/11 10:14 PM.

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Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
Ya_basta #333921 01/08/11 10:37 PM
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Cam,
I just finished running all my cables through the walls in my new condo. If I never see another hole in my drywall, I'd be a happy man.

As for cables, Romex for the power bridge is what you need. Simple and easy enough to use (and snake through the walls). But for your HDMI run, I'm assuming this is from the entertainment center to your TV, yes? Here's what I installed:

1) HDMI from Monoprice.
2) Component from Monoprice. (I *HATE* HDCP issues and some receivers have issues with OSD/GUI with HDMI)
3) Optical cable (just in case)
4) IR Receiver extender. If you want to turn on your cable with RF/IR later, it's a must.
5) CAT6 cable. Too many TVs these days can take advantage of it. You can always use a wireless bridge, but if you're running cables, why not!
6) ClubNeon turned me on to some temperature appropriate fluorescent lights. So I ran an extension cable from my receiver to (behind) the TV being mounted. This will let me use the trigger outlet to turn the back light on and off.
7) **MOST IMPORTANT**: Spare pull rope!

good luck. I'm getting ready to mount the M22 on-walls this week so I'm almost finished. I just have to terminate a million CAT6 and Belden COAX cables all over the house! smile

Last edited by Hansang; 01/08/11 10:38 PM.

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Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
Hansang #333922 01/08/11 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted By: Hansang
Cam,
I just finished running all my cables through the walls in my new condo. If I never see another hole in my drywall, I'd be a happy man.

As for cables, Romex for the power bridge is what you need. Simple and easy enough to use (and snake through the walls). But for your HDMI run, I'm assuming this is from the entertainment center to your TV, yes? Here's what I installed:

1) HDMI from Monoprice.
2) Component from Monoprice. (I *HATE* HDCP issues and some receivers have issues with OSD/GUI with HDMI)
3) Optical cable (just in case)
4) IR Receiver extender. If you want to turn on your cable with RF/IR later, it's a must.
5) CAT6 cable. Too many TVs these days can take advantage of it. You can always use a wireless bridge, but if you're running cables, why not!
6) ClubNeon turned me on to some temperature appropriate fluorescent lights. So I ran an extension cable from my receiver to (behind) the TV being mounted. This will let me use the trigger outlet to turn the back light on and off.
7) **MOST IMPORTANT**: Spare pull rope!

good luck. I'm getting ready to mount the M22 on-walls this week so I'm almost finished. I just have to terminate a million CAT6 and Belden COAX cables all over the house! smile


Thanks for all of that information, bud. One question-what do you mean by "IR Receiver extender. If you want to turn on your cable with RF/IR later, it's a must"? I have a Harmony 1000 along with the wireless extender. My satellite box will be in the cabinet at the back of the room so I assume I'm okay? Sorry, I don't know what else the IR receiver extender would be used for.

Thanks


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Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
Ya_basta #333925 01/08/11 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted By: wheelz999


Thanks for all of that information, bud. One question-what do you mean by "IR Receiver extender. If you want to turn on your cable with RF/IR later, it's a must"? I have a Harmony 1000 along with the wireless extender. My satellite box will be in the cabinet at the back of the room so I assume I'm okay? Sorry, I don't know what else the IR receiver extender would be used for.

Thanks



Some universal remotes use RF to communicate between the remote itself and the "controller" in the equipment rack. From this "controller" you plug in the IR flashers to stick on the equipment. This way, products that only work with IR (TVs, DVD players, cable boxes etc) can be controlled with the RF remote. The remote sends its signal via RF (so you can go through walls, don't have to point etc.) and the controller translates the RF signal into IR flashes.

Some remotes (some models of Harmony for example) have IR BLASTER. These are like flashers, but it's meant to spread the IR signal across multiple devices. MY URC remote uses 3.5mm mono cables for the IR flashers. So I ran 3.5mm mono extender cable from the equipment rack to the TV. I can then plug in my flasher to the extender, then the extender into the controller.


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Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
Hansang #333927 01/09/11 12:11 AM
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Okay, I get it now. Currently I have my remote set up so that the wireless extender controls all of my components with exception to the TV. Later on I plan on running 3.5 mm mono cables from the Logitech wireless extender to each component I need controlled; that way I can put the RF extender hidden in the cabinet. Until then, I just have to place it within line of sight of the cabinet, which shouldn't be a problem.

The way I have things set up, I don't think I will need to do what you did, although I could be wrong.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again.


The only reasonable argument for owning a gun is to protect yourself from the police.
Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
Hansang #333928 01/09/11 12:14 AM
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I made one of those power bridges to feed power to my wall mounted LCD at my old house. The hard part was locating the male receptacle end which feeds the power through the wall to the one you want to actually have power. I found them at an electrical supply store. We use them at work on our trucks to attach the block heater cords to, the drivers then only have to push the extension cord into the receptacle.


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Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
jakewash #333959 01/09/11 01:50 PM
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Hey guys,

I just went through Blue Jean Cable's and Monoprice's website for a speaker wire, an HDMI cable, and a component cable. The video cables are at 40 foot lengths(or thereabouts), and the maximum length I'll be running my speaker wire is in 50 feet lengths.

There's a huge difference in price between the two companies, and as far as I know, the cables are pretty much the same quality (or rating).

I know Hansang bought his cables from Monoprice, but I was wondering about the quality juxtaposed to that of Blue Jean Cables. As mentioned, the price difference is perplexing, but that said, I don't mind paying the extra if it means better quality.

Here's what I found-

Blue jean cable-

-BJC Twelve White Speaker Cable, 200 foot, unterminated- link - $124
-HDMI Cable, BJC Series-1 23 1/2 AWG Belden Bonded-Pair, 40 foot, Black - link - $110
-Belden 1694A Component Video Cables, 40 foot, RCA/RCA, Black - link - $126

Total not including shipping- $361.00

Monoprice-

-50ft (RG-6/U) CL2 Premium 5-RCA Component Video/Audio Coaxial Cable - link - $39.00
-Professional 22AWG HDMI Standard Speed Male to Male Cables - link - $35.00
-250ft 12AWG CL2 Rated 2-Conductor Loud Speaker Cable - link - $75.00

Total without shipping- $150

I don't know if I have overkill with the cables from Blue Jean Cables which is driving the price up, but I tried to choose the proper cabling from both websites, based on research I did online for my distance required.

I also have one more question-I just came across some information reminding me that you shouldn't run power cables in parallel with audio/video cables. Because I have to run them all through the bulkhead in my ceiling, is there a specific distance that they should be spread apart so it doesn't cause any interference?

Sorry for all the questions. Your guys input is greatly appreciated as always.

Thank you very much,
Cam


The only reasonable argument for owning a gun is to protect yourself from the police.
Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
Ya_basta #333963 01/09/11 03:21 PM
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I didn't mention a subwoofer cable because the one from Blue Jean Cable would cost me $75, and figured this one at Monoprice would do the job fine.

-50ft High-quality Coaxial Audio/Video RCA CL2 Rated Cable - RG6/U 75ohm- link - $10

Okay, I'll shut up for a while!


The only reasonable argument for owning a gun is to protect yourself from the police.
Re: Help choosing an in-wall component rack/shelf.
Ya_basta #333978 01/09/11 08:00 PM
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Blue Jeans sells the highest quality cables you can get that don't contain snake oil. Every part of their construction follows sound engineering principles, but they may be over engineered. Their cable stock is made in the US, and they are assembled here too.

Monoprice sells the cheapest cables of good quality. Produced and assembled in China. They're designed to work, and from all reports they do.

Blue Jeans did start their Tartan Cable to compete on price with Mono, for people who don't mind Chinese products.


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