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#351718 - 07/12/11 12:06 PM Sound Containment
nickbuol Offline

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 5396
Loc: Marion, IA
I am looking to try to contain some sound within the home theater since the room will be right under our bedroom. I was looking at mass loaded vinyl, but that is proving to be very cost prohibitive (about $275 in shipped charges alone) plus I hear that it is good, but not the best bang for the buck.

I know that some people will say "decouple" or "build a room within a room" etc, but I am trying to maximize headroom, etc. Anyway, I've heard decent things about green glue, but it is pricey too.

Right now, I have the following wall design:
2 walls are external 2x4 construction with a 2 inch gap between the 2x4s and the poured concrete walls. These have R19 insulation in them already.

The other 2 walls are being build this week with a staggered stud wall with 2x6 floor and ceiling "plates" and then 2x4 studs staggered. I haven't decided how far apart to put the 2x4s (16" on center or 24" on center). Everything else internally in the basement is 16" on center.

I will be putting R19 insulation in these 2 walls as well.

The ceiling is comprised of engineered I-beam type joists that are 20" on center. I have the area already stuffed with R19 insulation to reduce construction sounds as I build since I work many late nights while my wife goes to bed.

So, what is the best bang for the buck? Double drywall? Double drywall with Green Glue in between the 2 sheets? MLV zig-zagged in the staggered wall and stapled to the ceiling joists?

I will be treating the room internally when done, but I would love to do something to reduce the amount of sound leaving the room. My goal is not to make it "sound proof" as I don't have that amount of cash available. Oh, I will be putting in an external grade door with seals as well.

I figure that I will be framing the room this week and don't want to get it framed up just to get a good idea later and have to tear down the walls and rebuild...
2-M60s, VP180, 8-M3s, SVS 20-39PCi, DIY Sub, 8-Shakers, JVC RS45, Anthem MRX-1120

#351721 - 07/12/11 12:30 PM Re: Sound Containment [Re: nickbuol]
snazzed Offline

Registered: 09/07/09
Posts: 209
I will be very interested to hear the opinions here. I am moving in two weeks to a new house and there are 2 rooms that would be adequate for my gear... one of which is partially under 2 Bedrooms.

How *do* you effectively soundproof a ceiling?

M22, VP150, QS8 <--all v2
Sub: Outlaw LFM1-Plus
Denon AVR1910, Panasonic Plasma 50" S2

#351722 - 07/12/11 12:46 PM Re: Sound Containment [Re: snazzed]
dakkon Offline

Registered: 02/08/04
Posts: 1863
oh HGtv, they use this product a lot on the show income property, to sound proof the basement rental unit from the rest of the house.

Holmes on homes, used a sound proof drywall on a townhouse with sound issues between the common wall.

Here is the product that he used.

i can not speak to value of these products, but i would assume they are quality products if homes, and some of the other guys on HGTV like them... Good luck, maybe someone else will be more knowledgeable than myself on this subject.

#351733 - 07/12/11 02:35 PM Re: Sound Containment [Re: dakkon]
nickbuol Offline

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 5396
Loc: Marion, IA
I've heard of Quiet Rock and have seen the batting before. The batting that you linked to would run me $470 plus shipping just for the ceiling alone and that is for the cheaper stuff. Yikes!

Quiet rock seems decent, but they also brag about their "Orange Glue" as I would call it. Their version of Green Glue. I didn't price it up yet.

I was also reading things like if you double up on the drywall, to use different thicknesses (1/2" for one layer, 5/8" for the next) to get different resonant frequency control. I also read someone using a layer of plywood or OSB first and then drywall to allow the screws to be where they wanted, but that is the first time I read that.

I was also looking at resilient channel again, and it seems like it does a decent job since it is decoupling a lot, but it isn't a trivial cost either.

I'm not expecting cheap, but I am just trying to be smart with my dollars.

I am seeing a lot of people doing staggered stud walls with batting in the cavities and DD + GG on the inside. I think that will work great for the walls. The ceiling may be another challenge without getting crazy on the price. A good number of the cavities have ductwork (another issue in itself) or electrical running perpendicular to the trusses. Can't build a room within a room by adding new trusses inbetween the existing (plus that is costly), resilient channel seems pricy to add on top of DD + GG..

I wonder if just the insulation, DD (double drywall) and GG (Green Glue) will be good enough for the rare times that someone is watching a movie and the person upstairs is trying to sleep.

In my last theater, I just has a single layer of drywall, nothing else...
2-M60s, VP180, 8-M3s, SVS 20-39PCi, DIY Sub, 8-Shakers, JVC RS45, Anthem MRX-1120

#351735 - 07/12/11 03:23 PM Re: Sound Containment [Re: nickbuol]
tomtuttle Offline

Registered: 06/20/03
Posts: 8488
Loc: Tacoma
Originally Posted By: nickbuol
I wonder if just the insulation, DD (double drywall) and GG (Green Glue) will be good enough

I'm going with "yes".
bibere usque ad hilaritatem

#351736 - 07/12/11 03:38 PM Re: Sound Containment [Re: tomtuttle]
nickbuol Offline

Registered: 09/16/04
Posts: 5396
Loc: Marion, IA
I hope so. Now I need to figure out if I want to do 16" or 24" oc for the new walls.
2-M60s, VP180, 8-M3s, SVS 20-39PCi, DIY Sub, 8-Shakers, JVC RS45, Anthem MRX-1120

#351737 - 07/12/11 03:42 PM Re: Sound Containment [Re: tomtuttle]
cb919 Offline

Registered: 02/17/09
Posts: 1169
Loc: Ottawa, Canada
Hiya Nick,
Glad to read of your progress on the basement in the new house. I had the same issues when I built my HT in my basement a few years back. Here's what I did:

Walls - 2x6 plates with 2x4 uprights to decouple as you have already done. I did 16" on center but obviously offset from one side to the other.

Floor - Dri-core subfloor with carpeting

Door - Sliding solid wood pocket door - not sealed but being solid it works fairly well

Insulation - I used Roxul Safe n Sound because it was readily available and is a good sound and fire barrier. All walls and ceiling/floor joists were packed with this stuff. Double layer in the ceiling actually as there was room.

Vents - I put S bends in the duct work to help stop sound from the air vents making it into the main ducts for the house. I also used MLV mini stick on sheets to get rid of any resonance in the duct work.

Ceiling - used 5/8ths drywall in the ceiling instead of standard 1/2 inch. Also decoupled it from the floor joists by means of resilient channels (Z shaped metal strips). Using these you have to be very careful where you place your drywall screws so as to NOT put them into a floor joist - mark your drywall 1st.

I did a bunch of research and found this for me was the sweet spot on price vs. soundproofing extremes. It covered all the basics for minimal extra cost. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions.
On-Wall M5HP LCR, QS8 & EP500 in 7.1

#351744 - 07/12/11 04:49 PM Re: Sound Containment [Re: cb919]
Nick B Offline

Registered: 08/05/06
Posts: 504
One thing that you can do is to just nicely ask your wife to put one of these on before she goes to bed.

But, to be serious though...My wife goes to bed before me and the master bedroom is right next to the living room (where I have my home theater gear). Right now we don't have the funds for any kind of sound isolation solutions in the living room. So what we do is make sure that the bedroom has some kind of white-noise being generated, whenever the other one goes to sleep. For example, we have a humidifier running in the colder months of the year (which we would naturally want anyways to help with the dry air, when the furnace is running) and the warmer months we just run the ceiling fan (which helps to keep down the electric bill since we don't have to run the A/C as much). As long as I don't have an action movie cranked up when my wife goes to bed and I keep the volume at a reasonable level, she doesn't complain really at all. Having the white-noise on also helps me sleep better as well, since any noise from cars, trains, neighbors, cats, dogs, etc. will be drowned out. This option doesn't really cost anything.

What I just mentioned may not be a solution, but may work well in addition to some more inexpensive things that you can do in the home theater to help isolate the sound from the rest of the house.


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