Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion Stereo Good looking wiring?

Same here. I recently redid a couple bathroom floors (and walls and toilets and sinks) in my house. I used a good pry bar to ease the baseboards out. My home was build in the 70s and the baseboards in each bathroom were original so there were many layers of paint, too. No breakage, even though I didn't want to keep the baseboards since I planned to replace them -- and did.

CatBrat's on the Brute Squad.

In proper contruction with hardwood floors, the baseboard goes down before the floor is put in (so do the door casings), so there's 3/4" of bsbd. hiding beneath the floor level. If that's your case, I'd advise leaving the baseboards alone. It may also need a channel routed into it to accomodate the wire.

The crown's a better idea, but, if you've never done it, and the walls are not 180 degrees with true 90 degree corners, it can be an aggravating bear of a job.

It should cost about $4-500 to crown a 12 x 12' room, with (non-exotic profiles) materials included. That doesn't include filling, sanding, priming (if you used unprimed stock), and painting.

Crown almost always needs all of its edges caulked, which will leave a white edge on both the ceiling and the wall, which will need to be re-edged (painted).

Hope that's some help, Ken.

I'm sure you scared him.

Yeah, I'm scared.

I think what we'll probably do is chicken out and wire up the corner of the wall, then down on the corner of the wall and ceiling to the speakers. Then, my wife says, when she gets tired of looking at it, we can put up the crown molding. "Pretty!" she says.

The only question I've got now is how to secure the wires to the wall. I'm afraid Axiom's solution is a little rich for my blood. I've still got the 16 gauge flat wire from my old place, but I'll be damned if I'm putting up foam tape on walls I own. Any suggestions on adhesives?

Ken, what about Wiremold products? You can paint them to match the wall, but they attach to the walls with screws...the holes from which can always be easily filled?

How many times have you seen this photo?

Hmm... that might not be a bad idea. I've got a chair rail on the wall, but I can just use white wire and split the raceway going over that. I had thought they taped/glued to the wall, but screws are easy. And one assumes it's light enough I don't even need to worry about anchors or studs.

Here's a pic of hte room, empty. Which it ain't now...



The two corners visible are the corners I would run the wire up, then down towards the camera on either side.

I would still fish the wire through the walls. I've used some of the surface mount wire hiders. I guess it works ok, as long as you don't plan on removing it until the next wall repair paint job comes alone. It does make repairing the wall necessary when you remove them. I probably should of scraped them off with a knife. Instead, I just grabbed and ripped. Layers of paint and portions of drywall came out with it. Oops. Maybe I am Cat the Ripper.

Ken, I think that they do, by default, attach to the wall via double-sided tape. But I just drilled through the plastic back on the raceway and into the wall. Then I attached the back half of the raceway using a screw with a washer so the "hold" on the raceway was distributed over the washer instead of just the screw head. The plastic on the back of the raceway is relatively soft and I wanted to make sure the raceway couldn't pull off by accident.

I figured it always easier to patch a small screw hole than deal with removing the sticky tape if it was ever to be replaced.

Ken, I think's Mark's idea is the easiest and will leave you with the least damage when/if you decide to rearrange the room.

n.b. When removing anything attached to a painted surface, it's best to razor score all of the edges first. It will help keep the damage within the scored marks.

I like the profile-edged mounting plate. Sort of makes the QS's look like mounted big game trophies.

And though I DO like to scare people, it's not with this kind of stuff. Just wanted to point out the possible downsides before you dive into to something that's gonna get bigger that you imagined.

That clamshell (profile name) bsbd., (I think it is--it sure is on the window apron) may not sink before the floor level if it had been removed before the mfg'd. floor went down, then reapplied. It may be worth finding out. If it does sit on top of the floor, it'd be way easy to get off. Even if you damage it while removing it, it's only about $1.50 per linear foot. You'd still likely have to do some re-caulking and some edge painting.

Boy, this "being helpful" thing hurts. No swearing, no smarmy comments. Now I gotta go and find someone else's post to screw with.