Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
VP150
#359446 11/27/11 01:25 AM
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
H
frequent flier
OP Offline
frequent flier
H
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
Hi all,

First post here, have a technical question.

My center channel speaker, a VP150 is no longer working. I know that the center channel output from the receiver is working (I connected the left speaker to the center channel output and I have sound). I checked the speaker wires between the VP150 and the center channel output using a multimeter, both + and - wires have about 10.5 ohms over a 11 foot length. I'm pretty certain the problem lies with the speaker, just not sure what to do next (aside from buying a new center channel speaker). Any suggestions? I miss my center channel....

Thanks,
Steve

Re: VP150
hawk1061 #359447 11/27/11 01:25 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 18,044
shareholder in the making
Offline
shareholder in the making
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 18,044
Call Axiom.


I am the Doctor, and THIS... is my SPOON!
Re: VP150
Ken.C #359448 11/27/11 01:31 AM
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
H
frequent flier
OP Offline
frequent flier
H
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
Ken,

Thanks, but I got these speakers about 10 years ago (plus or minus a year), I'm guessing any warranty they had on them is over...

Re: VP150
hawk1061 #359449 11/27/11 02:03 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 18,044
shareholder in the making
Offline
shareholder in the making
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 18,044
They'll still probably be able to help--after all, they know the speakers better than any of us! My guess, though, is either the crossover or a wire detached from the crossover (if you're lucky.)


I am the Doctor, and THIS... is my SPOON!
Re: VP150
hawk1061 #359450 11/27/11 02:11 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,863
connoisseur
Offline
connoisseur
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,863
Steve, measure the impedance of the positive and negative terminals on the VP-150, it should be 6ohms... Since you measured 10.5 ohms at the end of your speaker cable, this is high, even with your speaker wire in the circuit. The wire itself is only going to add maybe 1 ohm at the most to the over all circuit.

How old is your speaker, they come with a 5 year warranty..

Re: VP150
dakkon #359452 11/27/11 03:23 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,420
J
shareholder in the making
Offline
shareholder in the making
J
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,420
For all the drivers to be dead, nos ound, you would have to have a major failure on the crossover or at the very least the input has broken off. I would pull the speaker wire plate off the back and take a close look at the crossover as it is attached to the back side of the plate; look for anything melted off, cracked etc.

I am willing to bet there are more than a few on this forum willing to sell you thier VP150v2 so they can upgrade to the VP180.


Jason
M80 v2
VP160 v3
QS8 v2
PB13 Ultra
Denon 3808
Samsung 85" Q70
Re: VP150
jakewash #359454 11/27/11 03:59 AM
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
H
frequent flier
OP Offline
frequent flier
H
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
Ok, measured resistance across positive and negative terminals... open circuit. So obviously something is broken.

I pulled the speaker wire plate off the back, there's a board with electrical components and then 6 wires... one black, 2 blue, 2 white one red. There does not appear to be anything melted. I sniffed it and no whiff of burnt components on the board. Also, it does not appear any wires have separated from the board....

So what does that leave as a possiblity? I'm not sure what a 'crossover' is. I recognize a couple of white rectangular resistors, two cylindrical caps, another cap and then a couple of coil looking items, one open center and the other with metal plates running through the center... Is that last the crossover?

How do I test a crossover to see if its good?

I had the speakers a year or two before moving out of my old house back in 2004... so I'd say I bought them sometime in 2002 or 2003 timeframe which would make them 8 or 9 years old. Well out of the 5 year warranty period.

Re: VP150
hawk1061 #359455 11/27/11 04:09 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 18,044
shareholder in the making
Offline
shareholder in the making
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 18,044
What you were looking at is the crossover.


I am the Doctor, and THIS... is my SPOON!
Re: VP150
Ken.C #359457 11/27/11 04:29 AM
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
H
frequent flier
OP Offline
frequent flier
H
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
Ken,

So, you are saying that the board/electrical components is the crossover?

If true, I see no evidence of burns/melting nor do I smell any hint of burned components... The wires attached to the board seem solid, no obvious cracks or breaks (at least from the board side).

Thoughts where to search next? I'm thinking of removing the speakers and checking continuity between the wires there, see if I can pinpoint a break somewhere. Seem like a logical next step?

Thanks.

Re: VP150
hawk1061 #359461 11/27/11 05:44 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,863
connoisseur
Offline
connoisseur
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,863
Originally Posted By: hawk1061

How do I test a crossover to see if its good?


buy one of these guys...

Ok.. the other option with the tools that you have, is...

Measure the value of the resistors, you can really only check to make sure that they are open, or short...

since your speaker is out of warranty, you can take the drivers out, and measure the resistance of each driver individually. One will have an open, they are most likely wired in a combination of series/parallel this is why you will measure each one individually to be able to determine exactly which driver is bad, so measure each speaker individually. If only one driver is bad, then you can simply order a replacement for single one that went bad.

if you really want... you can get one of these it has to be able to measure capacitors, not all flukes can. the setting between resistance and frequency is the capacitance setting. Your multi-meter might have one, maybe....

on a side/side note... I just noticed the link i gave you is for a multi meter, which is not manufactured by "Fluke" and does measure capacitance and cost's MUCH less than a fluke. I would say, buy the multimeter i gave you the link to, if your going to get another one.

If you need any more help feel free to ask.






Last edited by dakkon; 11/27/11 05:57 AM.
Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Moderated by  alan, Amie, Andrew, axiomadmin, Brent, Debbie, Ian, Jc 

Link Copied to Clipboard

Need Help Graphic

Forum Statistics
Forums16
Topics24,939
Posts442,452
Members15,615
Most Online2,082
Jan 22nd, 2020
Top Posters
Ken.C 18,044
pmbuko 16,441
SirQuack 13,840
CV 12,077
MarkSJohnson 11,458
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 221 guests, and 0 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newsletter Signup
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.4