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Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
Andrew #435822 02/26/20 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted By Andrew
Yes, with ADA1500s you will be fine. If you can avoid mixing channels from the left and right DSPs on the same amp module, that will be best. The two channels from one amp module go to each grouping of four binding posts.

Perfect, thanks !


M60ti, VP180, QS8, M2ti, EP500, PC-Plus 20-39
M5HP, M40ti, Sierra-1
LFR1100 active, ADA1500-4 and -8
Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
Andrew #435826 02/26/20 05:52 PM
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Thanks Andrew. This is helpful.

Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
Andrew #435827 02/26/20 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted By Andrew
If you can avoid mixing channels from the left and right DSPs on the same amp module, that will be best. The two channels from one amp module go to each grouping of four binding posts.

At the risk of asking a dumb question, for a stereo setup is there a benefit to running a 1500-4 with one module being used for each of left and right channels vs a 1500-2 which presumably has one module for both ?

I have a 1500-4 so I'm happy no matter what the answer is laugh

Last edited by bridgman; 02/26/20 11:04 PM.

M60ti, VP180, QS8, M2ti, EP500, PC-Plus 20-39
M5HP, M40ti, Sierra-1
LFR1100 active, ADA1500-4 and -8
Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
bridgman #435836 02/27/20 04:11 PM
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Andrew Offline OP
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Originally Posted By bridgman
At the risk of asking a dumb question, for a stereo setup is there a benefit to running a 1500-4 with one module being used for each of left and right channels vs a 1500-2 which presumably has one module for both ?

I have a 1500-4 so I'm happy no matter what the answer is laugh


There is no benefit if you are only using two of the four channels of the ADA1500-4. For the ultimate you would need to step up to the "Ian-approved extreme stack" of an ADA1500-1 and two ADA1500-2s for each LFR1100 active. smile

Thanks,

Andrew

Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
Andrew #435841 02/28/20 12:07 AM
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Andrew I have a sub wiring question. I'm going to drop down to one EP800. I would prefer to use the output of the LFR1100 DSP and tell the Denon that there is no sub. I would set the Crossover of the EP800 at 40 Hz and then adjust the level as necessary. In order to get both the L and R sub output, I was thinking of taking the output of both the DSPs and putting them together via a Y splitter and then sending the combined signal to the EP800 input. Is there any reason not to do this?


LFR1100 Actives,QS10HPx2,QS8x2,EP800,M3x4,M3x2 (Wood),M5HPx2 (Wood),AxiomAir,ADA1500-8,ADA1500-7
Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
Andrew #435844 02/28/20 02:59 AM
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SRoode, that won't work. Splitters can't be made into "adders" by reversing their connections. Circulating currents will be created between the DSPs.

I suggest you use the receiver's crossover. The receiver will also allow you to set distance which the DSP does not allow. I've raised this to Axiom but I don't know if it will ever be added. Without a distance setting, a sub fed off the DSP cannot be placed further from the MLP than the LFRs.

There's another thing about sub integration worth noting. I have two 500s fed off the DSPs crossed at 40Hz on the DSP. The actives are running full range at present. I have the 800 on the .1 channel. Up until yesterday, I was wondering what the phuk happened to my infrasonics. How could it be that I went from M100s to active LFRs and lost my infrasonics? Then I recalled how much wonderful bass I had in my living room and had a thought. I toed the LFRs in by 15 degrees and BAM! the infrasonics have been unbelievable. The LFRs and subs were destructively interfering with each other. This also explains why the 500s had no effect in my living room; the way they were positioned, relative to the LFRs, led to cancellations.


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Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
Andrew #435845 02/28/20 03:07 AM
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Thanks Mojo, that is excellent input! I always toe my mains a bit so that's not a problem.


LFR1100 Actives,QS10HPx2,QS8x2,EP800,M3x4,M3x2 (Wood),M5HPx2 (Wood),AxiomAir,ADA1500-8,ADA1500-7
Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
Andrew #435846 02/28/20 03:24 AM
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My point is that sub integration with the actives may be challenging. Toe in helped me but it may not help you. Toe in helped with infrasonics but I am not happy with the soundstage for music. The battle continues. One day I may be as happy with the actives in my basement as I am with the M2OW in my living room. That day is far off. frown


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Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
Mojo #435849 02/28/20 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted By Mojo
My point is that sub integration with the actives may be challenging. Toe in helped me but it may not help you. Toe in helped with infrasonics but I am not happy with the soundstage for music. The battle continues. One day I may be as happy with the actives in my basement as I am with the M2OW in my living room. That day is far off. frown


When setting up subwoofers, particularly within the context of a stereo system, I have never concerned myself with group delay or the absolute difference in phase angle between the mains and the sub(s) due to differences in distance. Why? Because I have not found that it has made much of a difference. My basic setup technique is to get the main speakers placed where they are sounding good and place the subwoofer where it's convenient. Play a STEREO track with well recorded acoustic bass, preferably plucked like you will find in many jazz arrangements. Something with a good bass solo or minimal instrumentation is ideal. Turn it up to a decent but not loud level and go over and kneel by the sub. Set the phase control to the zero position and move your head toward the main speakers. Listen to the tone of the bass notes. Now move the phase control a quarter turn. Did the tone of the notes get more defined? Are they thinner or fuller? If they are thinner the original position was best. I find that in many setups I can actually rotate the phase control slowly and you will hear a point where the bass between the mains and the sub "locks". Now move to your main listening position and repeat the track. Does the bass sound full and well-defined? If it does you've found your sweet spot.

Thanks,

Andrew

Re: LFR1100 ACTIVE - Configuration, wiring, and setup
Andrew #435851 02/28/20 05:50 PM
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Andrew, thanks for trying to help. I really wish it was that easy. Just stop and think about this: how can I verify that the tens of thousands of $ of gear I have in my basement works together as an optimized system? Think about all the physical and digital knobs and switches that exist within my system. How do I adjust them to optimize? How do I know that I don't need more knobs and switches with perhaps higher resolution? I don't expect an answer to this but I think it's worth thinking about on your end because it presents an opportunity.

I've read countless of times on this board comments like "I love my Axiom subs. They are totally silent until there's something for them to do." I've also read that Axiom subs don't put out like SVS or Hsu. I say that is a perfect indication those individuals have not optimized their systems for the exact reasons I stated above. Come to my place and listen to my subs growl with every note and flap your pants with every explosion. Having said that, I have no idea if I've optimized the growling and pant-flapping. And then it doesn't help the cause when I add in active LFRs and it all goes to hell precisely because I don't have the knowledge or technology to optimize my environment.

It's still a mystery to me why a 15 degree toe-in affected infrasonics from none to full. I'm actually not even sure about full. Maybe I can get more infrasonics out of my system with a 2 degree phase adjustment but how can I possibly know? I can spend the rest of my life tweaking and I frankly don't want to. I just want to enjoy sound...like I do with my measly M2OW system.


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