Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion Technical Questions 220 volt vs 120 volt for subwoofers

Hello,

This is my very first post so if I should be doing this elsewhere, please let me know. As well, maybe this has already been asked and answered. I am having the family room rewired and because I have an EP500 subwoofer, I see that it can powered for 220 or 120. I am just wondering if there is any benefit in powering it 220 V. The run would be dedicated to the subwoofers (hoping to add a second one, one day). I know that the minimun gauge of wire for 220 is 12 however I am thinking of running 10 gauge. This might be overkill however. any thoughts on this would be much appreciated.

thanking you in advance for all comments

vic650

It doesn't practically matter for the 500 but the higher voltage will give you more flexibility. Audio gear exists that provides higher output with a higher supply voltage.

Regarding gauge, it depends on length of run, ampacity, allowable voltage drop and conductor material. For a 40 foot run, 10A load and 1V drop, 10 gauge copper is fine.

In Canada the CEC requires:

120v with 12/2 loomex is fine. 20A breaker and 5-20R tamper proof receptacle.

If you run 20A 240v you will need a red jacket 12/2 loomex and a 6-20R tamper proof receptacle with 2 pole breaker. You will also have to buy a new cord for your sub. Using a normal resi receptacle with 240v is a big no no.

#10 for resi runs less than 30A is overkill, but fine if you have it around.

I wouldnt bother with 240v unless you know what you are doing. Follow the NEC in the US. Local codes supersede the NEC if the standard is higher.

Trevor, while were on this topic, do you know how much can be sourced transiently on a 15A residential circuit before a breaker trips? I've looked for amps vs. time to trip curves for breakers and can't find any.

I keep wondering how it can be that I'm powering all my basement gear through a 15A circuit and have not managed to trip it. Voltage is rock stiff too.

Typically the only circuits in our North American houses that have/need dedicated 240v. are Stoves and Dryers or Large shop tools. The 240v. is for users in other Continents.

If you were to put a dedicated 240 outlet for just your sub/subs is total overkill. Staying all 120V. is sufficient. The EP500 has it's own Toroidal power supply as well.

Sole dedicated line Much better use with for your AVR/Amps/ C.D. Blueray etc. Aficionado's with BIG Amps. recommend a 120V. 20A line Maximum for high power demands 30A Will potentially fry your equipment
As a total anti Ground loop scheme each Outlet should be direct to breaker for ultimate trouble prevention.

Depends on temp conditions and age of breaker. In commercial, we can sneak out a longer time curve for compressors or large motors with a breaker with a 22KA interrupting rating vs 10KA with same overcurrent setting.

Page 32 onwards explains inverse time curve. Higher the current, shorter the trip time.

https://www.downloads.siemens.com/d...load&fct=getasset&id1=BTLV_26555

Hello TrevorM,
Thank you for the detail answer. It all makes perfect sense. Just asking more out of curiosity then anything, on the cord requiring changing. Do you know if Axiom has two different cords type since their subwoofers can be quickly converted from 120 to 240 Volt.

Hello brendo,

Thank you for your answer. You mention dedicated for AV/amp/blueray. Just to clarify, do you .ean dedicated line for each or do you mean dedicated one for all ot them and only them.i.e. All three components

Vic650

Hello Mojo,

Thank you for providing a reply.

Vic650

There are a number of people on this channel whose ears perk up when they hear the word "overkill". I may have become one of them.

My last house had a 240V outlet box in the garage for the previous owner's Big Honkin' Welder (I always regretted moving before having anything to plug into it) and it seems to be becoming more common for people to run 240V to recharge electric cars.

I'm starting to think that it's time to start using 240V for other applications... we have to buy two or three amplifier boxes to power active LFR's, and with a 240V in-feed that could probably be combined into a single box (maybe even including DSP).

The subwoofer possibilities are... interesting.