Just checking read alot of this to level out peaks in the frequencies to the sub

I don't use one for my home setup but at the church I do sound for we do. Parametric EQ's have a great advantage for more precise settings because when doing a frequency balance for a room, you are able to choose the frequency ranges you want to adjust and by how much. I'm sure they would be just as advantageous in a home setting for pulling down the "hot" frequencies caused by room harmonics.

Yes. For a long time I used the Beringher BFD 1124dsp and now using a Velodyne SMS. Huge difference in sound quality as a result of taming room effects.

I would recommend room treatments first, if possible.

yeh, I was thinking of a FBQ2496 as it gives a greater dynamic range I am 95% movies so, extra settings do not mean a lot. I would reather have the extra

I will be doing treatments but, this gives a greater control advantage. SirQ you must read up on this if you haven't already. It will help control unflat frequencies before they get to the sub. Also I just did the cost for DIY sound treatment s and corner base traps I am into $400+ depneding on how far I want to take it. A Behringer DSP1124P $150 and a FBQ2496 $219
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/bfdguide/

Randy makes a good point. First use placement and room treatments as much as possible to cure the room acoustical problems and then only use modest equalization as the final tweak. The more you rely on parametric equalization , especially boosts at certain frequencies, the more likely you are introducing time domain and phase anomalies to your sound. While helpful its not a silver bullet.

SirQuack ,

I was just looking on your site again, when you built the bass traps it looks like you took a 2 x 2 sheet of rigid FG and cut it diagnally and stacked them on top of each other int the corner. If the corner is 8' high and the rigid FG is 2" thick then it took 3 pieces for a ft and 24 2 x2 in total. A 2x 4 piece is $10 therefore it cost $120 per corner for the FG so all in totle about $170 ?
Say it isn't so !

I see on your site a link to GIK and they just put a 2 x 8 panel in the corner diagonally and basically it leaves a cavity in behind. When you do the corner traps do you leave a cavity or is it best to have it filled ?

I purchased my Owens Corning 703 at a local Insulation Distributor that sells to contractors. The box came 12 panels which are 2ft x 4ft x 2" thick. It was about $120 bucks for 12 panels. There are some websites online where you can buy these panels, I can help you out if you need it.
For corner traps you can do it two easy ways.

Option 1: You can just stradle the corners with the panels without cutting triangles, takes less material. If you use 2 panels placed togethor to make 4" thick, it works great for a bass traps. So it would take a total of 4 panels to go from floor to ceiling. You would just build a couple of frames, place two panels in each frame, wrap with material, and hold the panels up with picture frame hooks/wires so they stay in place.

Option 2: Cutting triangles. There are two patterns you can cut out of a 2ft x 4ft panel. One makes triangles that are 24" x 24" x 34" which are much bigger than the ones I did, you only get 4 triangles out of each panel. I cut those triangles in half again, which gives you 17" x 17" x 24" which is still very big and takes up less corner space. In talking to people from GIK and Realtraps, I was told it would do a great job, slightly better than just stradling the corners with panels.

I basically put up a couple of 1 x 2's on the wall and attached some felt with velcro to the wood. The hard part is once you start stacking these triangles they like to fall over when they get real high, so it was a little tricky when your talking 8-9ft high.

I've been thinking about building a couple of 4ft high frames out of wood in the same shape as the triangles, only slightly bigger to hold the triangles, and then cover with a material. This would look like the GIK Tri Traps that BrotherBob purchased.

Thanks,
that's what I thought you did. My brothers friend up here is an insulation installer, he has his own company, so I called him tonight. He said he doesn't use the 703 much but ,thinks he pays $10 for a 2x4 sheet of 2". For my reflections I was going to use a 2" and a 1" with the backing on it to give me 3" and that would leave a 1" air space in the back. Also the viynle ( I can't spell that word ) to help hole in the fibres.

All my wall panels and ceiling panels are made from 2" 703. My research showed that was what most people followed. I then mound some white muslin type cloth to tuck around the 703 which helps keep any fibers from floating around, followed by some black like speaker grill material.

It is important the material you use for the wall panels is not reflective or to thick. If you can breath through it and feel your breath come out the other side, it will work.

Roxul Mineral wool boards are more readily available where you are and are just as effective. A pair of the Roxul 2" 60 or 80 boards would have a decent coefficient of acoustical absorption. I'm sure your brother can access those more easily.

I managed to find some special order roxul 12 boards that I used to build my bass traps and acoustical panels though the 80s and 60s are also very effective . You might also find it easier to use these great bags for professional looking results.

http://www.readyacoustics.com/index.php?go=products.products&cat=10