Yo fellas. I just got some M3's for my bedroom. I currently have a SC-1522-K receiver in my bedroom now. Not only is it too much of a receiver for my M3's, it emits a lot of heat, and as a result, my bedroom is 3-4 effin' degrees Fahrenheit hotter than the rest of the house; it's a bloody space heater.

So, I was wondering if a two channel class D receiver would put out less heat. If so, what would be a good budget friendly receiver that can sufficiently power the M3's?

Thanks,

Cam

Hmmm...... Are these good?

AIYIMA A07 TPA3255

https://www.amazon.com/NAD-Hybrid-Digital-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B07992VZ6L

Cam, that amp will work and it's ample for your room. But dude, winter's coming so 3 to 4 degrees warmer may be a good thing.

Yo, Mojo! How are you doing?

Thanks for the link and confirmation, guys. I did forget to mention that it has to have a USB plug because I need to connect it to my computer for audio playback. That appears to have one but it says "sevice", so I don't know if it would work(??). Also I did regularly crank my Paradigm monitor 9's in my bedroom. Will that little thing (or a different one with USB support) push my M3's near what I did with my 9's?

I found this with USB support - this

Thoughts? Maybe a different one that you're aware of?


Thanks

Okay, so the reviews say that it doesn't have a USB port, so I would need something similar.

Edit - This has a USB port "asynchronous Type-B USB input for connecting a computer

accepts signals up to 24-bit/384kHz". If that will work. Not enthusiastic about the price, but it is what it is.

- lik

This one is cheaper but would probably produce more heat - link

https://www.axiomaudio.com/computer-speakers

Trade your M3 in for M3 PC speakers. USB included.

Well, the M3's were B-stock Walnut Bordeaux that I got for $466, so I'm not returning them . USB wouldn't really work anyway because the inexpensive thin speaker wire is in my wall.

You can take a flier on this. Cheaper than the NAD with USB input. The PC must serve the files though.

S.M.S.L AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071JN7GXN/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Bought it.

Cool. Let us know how it goes. M3s are easy to drive so should be great.

I own that amp. Bought it to evaluate the 3255. Haven’t done any critical listening and only ran it with a pair of Bose 101 monitors… but I’m fairly happy with it.

I see I'm too late, but I'll make my reco anyway, just in case:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022WXA50DS/Yamaha-WXA-50.html

The unit you bought (S.M.S.L AD18 ) looks interesting … I’d like to hear you opinion as well.

The AD18 has a so-so review from audioscience: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...measurements-of-smsl-ad18-dac-amp.7325/. Although it does seem interesting at its pricepoint.

What I like about the Yamaha is MusicCast, so you can control the thing with your phone, including selecting music from the USB drive.

Most of the big manufactures have phone apps that multicast and allow control from a phone. Most allow you to play off USB. The big problem is that these manufacturers all have their own proprietary multicast systems (IMO an attempt to tie you into their system). These systems don’t play nice with each other.

The saving grace is that all of them support airplay … but that just allows you to multicast to these AVRs/prepro from iTunes server or device. You still need the manufacturers app to control each unit.

But you knew that … right

I don't think it's an attempt to tie you to their system. If an industry standard existed, and it was generally accepted, they'd use it.

I did! But I was comparing to the AD18, for which I didn't see such an app.

The other, unspoken emphasis, was that it works well; and with Yamaha you can expect it to be around for a while. So if you get another Yamaha (there's the system lock rrlev!) then they all work with the same app.

And while I'm at it, what I don't like about airplay is that it requires your phone/tablet to be in use; with MusicCast you select/stop/start from the phone, but the actual playing is handled by the device.

Pretty sure Cam uses his voice to tell his PC what to do.

As far as multiroom stuff goes Bluos is the way to go.

If he's using the USB plugged into the amp, I don't think computer voice control is going to help him.

Its just a DAC. Cant browse files. PC is his transport.

Okay, I *completely* missed his intent for the USB. My bad, and ... never mind!

I only use voice to play games using software called Voicebot.

How do you do that?

How do you throw a knife with the right hand, while protecting yourself with a shield using the left, while running to the left while looking at the target and laughing at it.

Or are the games you play "simpler" like chess?

I will get back to you on this, bud.

Speakers just got put up on the wall. Two things -

The right speaker tweeter is about 2 feet closer to say the central listening position, and I pretty much only hear vocals from that speaker as a result. I was really hoping that they would be more forgiving. Is there anything that I can do to make the soundstage more even, so to speak?

Also, I am really surprised with the lack of bass. Now, this is my first set of bookshelf speakers, so I am probably expecting too much (I had Paradigm Monitor 9's). They sound phenomenal outside of the lack of bass. Can I adjust something in the amp to compensate? Or do I need a sub with the M3's? It wouldn't surprise me if that is common. BTW I haven't got my new stereo DAC set up, so I am still using my Pioneer sc1527-k.

Thanks

Cam, I don't understand what you mean by the right tweeter being closer? Why isn't the entire M3 closer? Assuming you mean that the right M3 is closer to your listening position than the left M3, I recommend you try lowering the volume of the right, increasing the volume of the left or a bit of both.

As for the bass, there is plenty in the M3 but not like the Monitor 9. Perhaps too, you are encountering a bass null at your listening position. A sub, properly placed, could fix that.

Sorry.... Yes, I meant the entire right speaker. I will try adjusting the volume of it.

I think that you're right regarding a bass null. The M3's are mounted on the wall just below the ceiling, and I am in bed. They are in a horizontal orientation, but Axiom said that it wouldn't make a difference in the sound.

You may have to adjust the volume of both to optimize the image and soundstage.

Okay. Thanks bud.

Seams like everyone of the big steamer/smart tv manufacturers are using some kind voice control. My Apple TV, LG TV, & Amazon Fire have the ability using Siri and Alexa. Siri does an amazing job figuring out what I’m asking for … even when I think I flubbed the request.

Don’t know Bluos … I’ll have check it out.

Hey fellas. I bought a SVS SB-1000 pro to work with the M3's. What should I set the low pass frequency and phase to? Also, the AD-18 is awesome. And the M3's bass is way better. It really does well for a bookshelf speaker. Clearly my Pioneer receiver wasn't set up properly because there was a drastic difference as soon as I got the AD-18 up and running.

Forgot to ask - Are there any settings in the AD-18 that I have to deal with. I do not understand the user manual at all.

Thanks

Cam, I don't see any user-definable settings for that amp.

Where is the sub relative to the M3s? How far and are they all in the same plane?

Yo, dude. My left speaker is on the wall above the door to the left of the clock, and the right speaker is above the wall hanging.

Link.

My sub is in the corner below my TV.

Link.

And sorry but what do you mean by "are they all in the same plane?"?

Thanks

Same plane just means that they're all on a two-dimensional doubly ruled surface spanned by two linearly independent vectors. Like if they all abut the same wall.

Set the phase to 0 degrees.

Set the cross-over to 60Hz. Any higher and the bass may become over-powering in that room.

Remember there's an app for that sub so you don't have to get your ass out of bed. There's a lot of fiddling you can do with that app. Have fun!

Thanks for the info. It is currently set to 80 as per the suggestion of 80-100 (tinkering to my preference) by Andrew at Axiom. I will give 60 a go.

Let us know which is better.