Ok so I know what speakers i like to use in 7.1 ,but whats up with this 9.2 11.2 stuff. Is it really needed in smaller room as homes. Most home theatres on average are maybe 15 x 20 if we are lucky. is these many speakers gonna make a great difference. I can see it in a big room 20 x 30 with a few rows of seats.
and if so other than m80's for L/R and VP180 and 4 QS8's what do you use for the rear corners and the front sides and the front high ....did I get them all 8-)
It ends with a 7.something system in my room, period.
People do often assume some sort of proportionality between number of speaker channels and the volume of a listening room, but I think having more speaker channels is all about greater quality of sound, not filling up more volume. (I use "speaker channels" rather than "speakers" to allow for the case of theaters using multiple speakers for each channel, which does seem to be a matter of filling volume.)
I don't see why it should ever end. I'm at 7.1 masquerading as 9.3 -- it's not actually 9 since I can't play my back surrounds and front heights simultaneously, and it's not actually .3 since my 3 subs all play the same signal. I'm looking forward to getting a real 9.2 system, then 11.2, and onward from there.
Ok so I know what speakers i like to use in 7.1 ,but whats up with this 9.2 11.2 stuff. Is it really needed in smaller room as homes. Most home theatres on average are maybe 15 x 20 if we are lucky. is these many speakers gonna make a great difference. I can see it in a big room 20 x 30 with a few rows of seats.
and if so other than m80's for L/R and VP180 and 4 QS8's what do you use for the rear corners and the front sides and the front high ....did I get them all 8-)
I think to go from 7.1 to 9.1 would be the addition of two front speakers for "height" that would go above the regular front channel speakers, and the ".2" would be an additional sub. Not sure where the other 2 to get to "11.2" would be placed though.
Since most Blu-ray discs are just now starting to come out in 7 channel audio, I agree there is not much need to upgrade receivers past that unless you need all 7 channels in the main room and want 2 channels for zone 2 in IMHO.
I understand what the other channels are for. But, given that Axioms 80's and QS8's are so good in sound and sound staging. Would these otehr 6 speakers really be make that much of a difference in a smaller room,I am talking 15 x 20ish. That's about a good home theatre sized room for a normal family joe blow. I can see more speakers for those of us who are furtunate to have larger movie rooms.
And also, I guess if you have M80's for fronts you may want M80's for the front wides and M80 for the rear corners and most likely M22 for the front Height. So, for an extra #3400 is it worth it. Actually if you can afford the first 7.2 with M80's and EP500's and have a huge movie room the extra $3500 is like piss in the wind, so why not.
OK I may have to think about possibly adding front Height M22's , but that won't be for another 6 - 10 years when the sources come out with 9.2 programming.
Not 7.7. The answer is 9.7. 9.9 would be dangerous. Could fall on someone's head or something.
I'll probably stop at 7.2 but first I have to figure out how to use my 5.1..I think I need to buy set-up for dummies book..can't figure out this crossover thingy..lol
Cross over M80s and M60s at about 80 Hz. Cross over M22s or M3s at about 100 Hz. Cross over the QS8s at 100 Hz.
Set speakers for large.
I think the that in the end it’s dependent on the room. In my 16x12x8 apartment I found 5.1 worked better than 7.1. I literally had as perfect a 360 degree soundstage as I could imagine. In my 21x13x8-12vaulted I find that 9.2 with wide speakers and a Buttkicker are about as good as I’m going to get. In the second case the longer room greatly benefits from wide speakers because they fill that gap between the mains and the surrounds caused by room length.
IMO a close to square room (not really square) is perfect for creating a 360 degree soundstage in the sweet spot or for all seats if the walls are far enough away. However, the longer the room and the more rows of seats the more having wide or multiple surround speakers benefit the presentation.
I don’t think HT audio will benefit from many more channels unless we break free from having the video projected only up front. If a wider range of video angles are present then I could see an advantage to adding more audio channels so better support the 180 or say 360 degree on screen action.
My room stops at 5.1. Its too small for rear channels or another sub. If I get a new house with a larger "Theatre Room" in the future I can see myself going to 7.2. Unless I win the Lottery thats all I can imagine reasonably doing.
I mean really? Height and Width Channels? Perhaps adding a Centre channel to the rear as well... What is that? 12 channels? I think anything over 7 (non-LFE) channels would make for really minor improvements.
my 2c
snazzed
Axiom should offer receivers with pliiz decoding and a special on a second pair of effect speakers to go with it. Everyone of you out there could be a customer for 2 more Axiom speakers.
For me it will end at 7.2. Maybe when there are 9 or 11 channels of actual audio information i would consider going that route but I don't buy into all of the extra speakers with audyssey processing, etc. all from information for 5 (or 7) channels.
I'll stick with my 2.0, thanks
Shane
Too impure. Revert to mono.
Cross over M80s and M60s at about 80 Hz. Cross over M22s or M3s at about 100 Hz. Cross over the QS8s at 100 Hz.
Set speakers for large.
If you have a sub though..you set the speakers to small..am I right???
Set them to what ever sounds best, some even run the sub with the M80s set to large for a double bass effect to help smooth out the in room response.
I set them all to large. Call me crazy.
Ok, you are crazy.
That is what makes HT/home audio great, you can set the system up to suit your own ears.
You are aware that if you have the speakers set to large, you have no need for crossover points as the processor sends a full signal to the speaker and all you get out of the sub is LFE unless you enable Mains+ sub or what ever your avr calls it.
I know it doesn't match reason, but with only the On-walls + sub, I always got a better sound with everything set to large. With the bookcase, I like it better set to small.
If I'm not mistaken (which I usually am), I believe Mike (michael_d) has his speakers also set to large in his HT setup?
Mike?
Oh wait, he's probably down in the lower 48 picking up that new Z06 somewhere.
I ran my M22's as Large+Mains while I had a weak sub, once I picked up a better sub the m22s were set to small and it sounded better IMO, a little cleaner on the lower mid, upper bass.
I think the that in the end it’s dependent on the room. In my 16x12x8 apartment I found 5.1 worked better than 7.1. I literally had as perfect a 360 degree soundstage as I could imagine. In my 21x13x8-12vaulted I find that 9.2 with wide speakers and a Buttkicker are about as good as I’m going to get. In the second case the longer room greatly benefits from wide speakers because they fill that gap between the mains and the surrounds caused by room length.
IMO a close to square room (not really square) is perfect for creating a 360 degree soundstage in the sweet spot or for all seats if the walls are far enough away. However, the longer the room and the more rows of seats the more having wide or multiple surround speakers benefit the presentation.
I don’t think HT audio will benefit from many more channels unless we break free from having the video projected only up front. If a wider range of video angles are present then I could see an advantage to adding more audio channels so better support the 180 or say 360 degree on screen action.
However, Grunt they say an un-equilateral room is best suited for HT and sound waves. So, your second room seems better un equal odd sizes as oppose to a 10x10x10.
Like if the sound wave hita the side way at 45 it will bounce off at 45 to the next to the next to the next always in the same spot. No real disspertion
Set them to what ever sounds best, some even run the sub with the M80s set to large for a double bass effect to help smooth out the in room response.
I perfer the Mains M80 to large, anything over 45ish is going to fade and roll of anyways. Also, it seems to blend in well between the sub and M80. the volumn level of 30hz and below on the 80's is pretty low anyways.
Unless your amp setup is at 80hz for the fronts/Large and you have the sub set to set to LFE and not LFE + Mains. Then again if you have the mains set to small and you have M80's that's a waste, that's like buying a Cadillac and driving the Pinto or better yet you drive the Pinto and the wife drives the Caddy.
Too each his own preference ...
If you have the M22's set the amp to small speakers and sub output to LFE only, I think most amp when set to small there is no option for LFE+Mains.
If you have M80/60's I perfer to set the Mains to 80hz the Centre "if" the VP150 to small, "if" the you have the VP180 set to large.
For the sub setting if running M60/80 I would set it to LFE+Mains
If you don't find it blends well cut it to LFE only and set the Mains to small
I know with Denon you can still set the sub to LFE + Mains and speakers to small but it doesn't matter as the crossover is in play when ever a speaker is set to small and all below the crossover(rolled off of course) is sent to the sub regardless of the sub setting.
However, Grunt they say an un-equilateral room is best suited for HT and sound waves. So, your second room seems better un equal odd sizes as oppose to a 10x10x10.
Like if the sound wave hita the side way at 45 it will bounce off at 45 to the next to the next to the next always in the same spot. No real disspertion
Note that I said “IMO a close to square room (not really square)” and not a cube or “10x10x10.” In the case I cited the room was 16x12x8 which is considered poor for reasons of the room having dimensions divisible by the same number but that again is not my point.
Having a room that allows for closer to circular placement of speakers around the listening area makes for a more seamless 360 degree soundstage with fewer speakers than a longer narrower room usually requiring a longer elliptical speaker layout. Plus having a symmetrical layout also lend itself to more even soundstages all around.
If you haven’t noticed I don’t care much for what “they say” (the experts) once I have my own experience in matters.
9.7. An EP800 under your front L/R, Center, L/R side surround and L/R back surrounds. Since we're talking pliiz decoding, there should be 2 side mounted M22s above your Front L/R speakers or maybe a VP150 above your front Left and another above your Front/R.
2 upper front effects speakers, each of the other 7 speakers is assisted by an EP800, so we can refer to each (in combo with its sub) as a full range speaker.
Also, while we're at it, let's get a bigger room.
We should have some serious outboard amplification as well.
That's what I thought.
but what speakers do you use for the front heights if you have M80's for Front L/R.
Of the speakers I have the QS8s are the best height speakers. I’m not sure if it would matter if you had M80s, M60s or M50s. However I imagine that the QS4s would do fine because the height speakers don’t really have to do very much.
All that comes out of them are ambient sounds like wind, rain and echoes. There are no direct sound effects or hard pans from other speakers. I imagine someone could even mix bi/di-pole speakers from different brands and it would work fine.
Audyssey does recommend direct radiating speakers for height and all other positions for that matter. Not sure of Dolby’s position on it. But like I said above speakers that spread out the sound like bi/di-pole work better for me since those are the types of sounds coming out.
Yup, QS8s or VP 150s. If you trust your bracket, maybe a pair of gigundous VP180s.
That's what I thought.
but what speakers do you use for the front heights if you have M80's for Front L/R.
This came up at the plant on the weekend, and Ian, Andrew et. al. said that direct radiating speakers shouldn't be used as height speakers; you should only use QS8/4's.