I gather that you have a knowlege about electronics. I don't.

I am trying to make myself an external trigger switch to fix the shortcomming of my AVM60 pre-amp and the ADA1000 units. The two of them don't want to play nice with each other for the job I need them to do.

I am looking to put together a box with a 120v plug on it. inside the box I need a 12v relay that i can control with the trigger line off my AVM60 pre-amp. it's 12v-40mA, so not really all that much current. I have ordered from amazon this:



now I gather that if i put a jumper on instead of the bit that you stick into the ground, it would make it so that when the 12v (connected to the other input) is there the relay would close. And when the 12v is disconnected, the relay would open.

I could then run the black wire from my power cord to the comm on the relay, and another from the on relay connection to the load side of a receptical. The white would just go straight to the other side. This would give me a power receptical that could turn on when there is a 12v trigger voltage coming from my pre-amp. This receptical then could be used to turn on and off my Amp-OneA's that are used to power the height speakers for Atmos.


Then to make this more useful, I can hook up a 12v power supply module to this receptical and have the 12v DC output run to a set of 4 x 1/8" patch plugs to give me now 4 new trigger lines to control my subs, and the two ADA1000 amps that obviously need their own dedicated lines that can share the 1A output from the power module.



I had drawn up a diagram of the idea but as I can't upload a photograph to the forum here, I just put in images of the parts ordered from Amazon.

My spelling is horrible, but I don't care, phonecly try and read it Spelling correctly is for teachers and they are on strike right now,

You dont need the 2nd module.

Run the trigger out to the coil and use the line side to break the 120V hot using common and normally open terminals. Run the neutral directly to the silver screw on all your receptacles. The switched hot off the N/O terminal on the relay will go to all the brass screws on your receptacles. You are limited to 10A with that relay's line side contacts. Since it is controlling 4 devices with capacitor inrush you might run into problems, might not. We always upsize relays to a contactor for power loads like this.

Neat little project!

Again, a current sensing strip will save you a lot of headache. Plug your AVR into the master and all your subs and amps into the switched receptacles. There are 2 always on receptacles to run a cooling fan or light etc. 40$

https://www.amazon.ca/APC-P8GT-Power-Sav...G5S3MX3R7GZR926

I have an APC backups pro hooked up to the rack downstairs. It has a master with 4 outlets that are supposed to be controlled by this like the unit you sent a link to. I have yet to get it to work. So I don't trust that they will do anything.

I was making a single receptical that can power on/off my LFR-DSP and the two Amp-One amplifiers that power the Atmos/height speakers. Then give myself 4 high current 12v trigger ports to cover the Axiom ADA1000 amps, the EP500 subs and still have a free port left over just in case.

I got the two parts I wrote about. The rely works perfectly with the 12v trigger on the back of the Anthem AVM60, so it looks like everything will work just fine. All i am left with is waiting for eBay delivery of the 3.5mm pugs and deciding if I put a resistor off the 12v power module to bring it down from 1 amp to 0.5 amp. probably is not needed as a trigger should only pull as much power as needed, but in the back of my head, I don't want to blow the ADA boards because I used a 1a powersupply and it's just too much current for what the circuits inside the unit can handle.