In reply to:


"Real" bi-amping (where you disable the speaker crossover and add an electronic crossover before the amplifiers) really does make a difference, but mostly by letting you run the woofer amp closer to clipping without hearing the distortion in your midrange and tweeters.

"Faux" bi-amping (where you run exactly the same signal into both amps) doesn't seem to accomplish much more than bi-wiring, and most don't feel bi-wiring accomplishes any more than going up to the next size of speaker wire.

As soon as you add a powered subwoofer with separate amplifier, you gain 99% of the benefit of "real" bi-amping anyways. Bi-amping was big back when woofers carried ALL the bass, and sub-woofers were a dream.




This is a very informative post John, very well explained in a few lines.

I have my M60s bi-wired (not bi-amped). I noticed an improvement in my system, but I am not sure if this came from bi-wiring or from switching to a different, better speaker cable.


Axiom M60s, QS4s, VP100 Onkyo TX-SR804 Oppo 970HD Rotel RB-1080/RCD-1072 REL Q150E sub, PS 3