It is an automotive repair shop. its really dusty here,makes it hard to do what im doin right now. Very time consuming stuff,especially with no experience to speak of. Havent done this since graded 10 . I like doing it but can be frustrating when you mess up. I will not use water base again until we consume or outlaw every last drop of oil . ive tried it twice now just doest work like the goood ol kemichal stuff.
On a 1-10 scale, I've never been graded a 10 at anything, so you must have been excellent! Sure looks like it.
Finishing is a whole separate thing. Some pro furniture makers hate it so much (or see it as unrelated to their work as "sculptors"), that there is a whole world out there of pro finishers who do new work only (no RE-finishing).
Waterbased or water-borne (not the same thing), everything dries so fast that it's hard to avoid lap marks or undo them once they're there. Water-clean-up clear finishes do not self-level very well, so application marks are a bitch. They exist mainly for two things right now; spraying (catalyzed water-borne) or keeping the true color of light woods or pickled woods. They can lend a blue overtone to dark woods and their durablity is far less than poly-based finishes.
They keep improving, and, maybe one day, their long-overdue promises will be fulfilled. For now, if you do it again and you have to use water-?, look online for the super-expensive ones--Minwax oil is great, Minwax water sucks. The good water ones (Waterlox, General Finishes, Campbell, et al) are 2-4 times the cost of Minwax and the difference is worth all of it, though still not as all-around good as polys. Wipe-on oil poly changed my life.
Still, it appears that you overcame, 'cause the results look pissah!
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