Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion Home Theater Wiring in a finished basement

Are the "raceway's" permanent...in other words...do you plan to take them down. I've found it rips the drywall badly if you do. I wouldn't mind doing that...just hesitant if I move or need to remove it for some reason.

I'm guessing you could probably pull them off if you ever need to, however, I'm guessing it would pull some of the ceiling texture with it....They use double coated adhesive tape, not sure if it is 3M brand or what...

I doubt I'll ever move, but if I do, I'll probably leave the raceways for the next owner and just buy more, I don't think you could reuse them easily unless you put some new tape on the back and that would be more work than it is worth..

you should be able to find wiremold at home depot or your local electrical wholesaler, that will allow you to screw it to a wall.

one manufacturer that ive used alot is called panduit

your other option is too cut your drywall at every stud , then drill a hole through your stud , fish the wire , and then you get to have lots of fun trying to patch the holes and make it match the rest of the basement.
I really dont think you should do that unless your very comfortable with what your doing.

Punching holes into my wall at every stud does not sound like fun. I am looking closely at the wiremod and raceways mentioned. I appreciate the input and am going in the wiremold direction...

Is there any air space between the sheetrock and the outer wall? If you like the look of crown molding you could go inside the wall (by poking a hole in the bottom of the wall where your equipment is) till you get to the top. Then run all your wires around the top corner and install the crown molding to hide the wires. Sorry if that explanation is hard to understand. Let e know and I will try to clarify.
Jake

Running wiring across the studs is a bitch, but can be done. I’d just snap a chalk line across the bottom of the wall(s) about 12” up from the floor. Cut that 12” of rock away by setting your skill saw depth to ½”. Then boar your holes and run your wiring through he studs. Poke your holes through the rock at your speaker locations and use "old work" J-boxes at those locations. Then just fish the wires up to the boxes from the bottom of the stud bays. Screw in new rock and tape it. One long joint will be much easier to feather in to the wall(s) than patching holes. Just work your way up to a 12” trowel, match your texture and no one will ever tell the difference. Sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn’t. Just start doing it and you’ll be done in a day.