Charles disappointing women, again.

But yeah, this sucks.

Chris, that got a genuine out-loud laugh!

First off, I appreciate you, Amie, and Ian coming out in force. I'm sure this is exactly what you wouldn't want to happen when you're first getting a new product into customers' hands.

Yes on the red lights, and yes on them turning blue, as well as the blue light on the front coming on when I press the front panel button. I'm hearing a click. Should it be a singular click? With other amps, it seems like it's been more than just one click. Anyway, I was hoping that it would magically start working today after being off, disconnected, then reconnected, but no such luck.

I wasn't using the trigger yet, since I was wanting to hear it as soon as possible, and that would have probably taken 15 seconds longer. Ha ha.

Oh, and you're correct, I'm not able to get sound from ANY of the channels.

I'm going to take some pictures later to send to Ian, as he's hoping to spot the culprit.

If only it was an olympic event?

I took the pictures for Ian, but I figured some of you would want to see more pictures of the insides:

ADA1000-4 #1
ADA1000-4 #2
ADA1000-4 #3
ADA1000-4 #4
ADA1000-4 #5
ADA1000-4 #6
ADA1000-4 #7

Aha! It looks like one of the main power supply connectors has come loose in shipping. It's possible that it was not fully seated and locked during assembly. It's a white plug with blue/black/red wires near the large, black capacitors. Simply plug this in to the only available connection on the power supply board (you can see an identical red/black/blue wire that is plugged into the power supply from one of the amplifier modules) and you should be good to go. The white connector is keyed so that it will only plug in in one direction and will make a click when it's locked. I'm positive that the amp will be fully functioning once that plug is connected.

Charles,

I was looking at photo #1, the grey connector to the amp board on the left as viewed from the photo looks like it is bent slightly. the same connector on the amp board on the right is perfectly perpendicular to the board... Maybe this could be part of the issue? If this is the case, it might be worth some close up's of that particular connection. Andrew or Ian would know much more about what that connection does.. Also, i would think that the other channel would work even if this wire is not making a good connection.


Also, an obvious question, did you verify that all of the other wiring connections within the amp were still securely connected? If the box had a sharp impact, one of those connections could have come loose, again unlikely but possible....


Also, is the ground nut still tight? I would assume that this is the least likely problem, as the amp would be erratic with a loose ground nut, and yours is completely dead. However, this is something that can be easily checked with the top lid off.


I would think this is a connection issue, as the likely hood of both amp channels failing in transit is almost nill, also we know the power supply is good because you get LED power indicators on all of the boards....


I hope this helps.. Good luck man, hopefully it is like i hypothesised and it's just a loose connection that is a 2 second fix.

P.S. Andrew noted the problem before i could even finish my post..... do what he said

Unplug it first!

Charles, hurry up already!!

Ha ha. Success! Thanks, Andrew. And Sean, you really motivated me.

I saw that connector, but I couldn't see where it was supposed to plug in, since it was obscured under the other one. There was barely enough cable for that one to reach, so that's probably why it didn't end up locked in place.

Really happy now. I'll do some listening, but then I have to get ready to go see The Bourne Legacy with my friend. Obligations.