Ok, my dad gave me his 30year old Chief Pool Table. We disassembled it and moved it to my place this past Saturday. Still looks like new. Dang that 7/8" thick slate is heavy.

Anyway, as you know if you've worked with 3-piece slate tables, you sometimes have a very small seam where the slate pieces go together. It sounds like the best method for filling them is to use beeswax and heat with a torch. Once soft enough you press the wax into the crack. After it hardens, you can take a putty knife and scrape flat the excess.

I don't have a torch or beeswax, so was wondering if something else could be used. The cracks are very very small, so most likely you would not know the difference. I just want to do it right before I attach the felt.

I don't think torches or beeswax are that expensive, are they?

Randy I believe you can find a BerzOmatic torch kit just about anywhere for less than 30 or so bucks.

HEH heh FIRE! Fire is cool!

Let's go, like, burn stuff! HEHHEH

For an application like that I'd be looking at a heat gun rather than a torch. I picked up a cheap one on Ebay for about $10. Aslo good for heat shrink tubing. I use mine more than I use my torch.

Now now, Beavis.

My wife thinks the Bernzomatic is hers. She uses it to carmelize the sugar on creme broulee. She was also delighted to learn that burning is probably the most effective way to rid ourselves of some particularly noxious weeds. She's a scary pyro, but it's part of her charm, I guess.

You could pick up a ring of toilet wax ring and forego the torch. That stuff is easy to work with at room temperature and comes with a 10-year no drying or cracking guarantee.

A buddy of mine just bought a pool table and when the installers installed it, he told me they used Fix-all for the joints. If you haven’t used it, it’s very simple. Just mix what you can use quickly (as it sets up quick), and spread with a putty knife. Sand smooth in about an hour and you’re done.

Thanks for all the responses guys. I had the pool shop check the bumpers and re-felt the side rails for me. I'll ask them what they recommend, can't be to difficult.

I've heard of two different products used (one of the arcade guys I talked to in the Build Your Own Arcade Controls forums was an arcade employee)... he said for a quick and dirty setup where they didn't care about future quality, they used all-purpose drywall joint compound. For a stronger, more permanent and better joint, they used subfloor patch like this. My brief stint with a flooring contractor we used a product called Plan-It Patch and I can see the benefit of it.

Bren R.

I had another idea last night Randy. While the fix-all will most likely work just fine and last for years, if you ever move the table, it may chip or crack. Fix-all sets up rigidly and will not flex. That being said, I think that a NON-sanded, latex fortified ceramic tile mortar may just be a better option. Or I should say, that is what I would use unless a professional installer had something better to use. The latex fortified mortars set up hard, adhere to anything, but at the same time, flex - in the event that you decide (or your better half decides) to move the table. A NON-sanded mortar will also be sand able and will spread very smoothly.

Good luck. I’m envious that you have the space for a table. I’d love to have an 8 footer in my home but have nowhere to put one where a miss-cue wouldn’t take out a window.

Thanks Mr. Drew I can tell you this much, I doubt we will ever move it again, but if we do, the slate is in 3 pieces anyway. It would be impossible to move the table in tact without taking it apart.

When my table was installed they did not use anything on the joints. I asked why not and he had me close my eyes and slide my hand across the joint. I really had to focus to feel anything. He did use very thin wedges under the table to make sure the slate came together perfectly. Once the felt was installed, I could not fine the joints. The imperfections in the felt was much greater than in the slate.

If you don't want the joints you could always get a one piece slate and try and carry it in and put on your table. For an 8" table that would be approx. 900 lbs.

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If you don't want the joints you could always get a one piece slate and try and carry it in and put on your table. For an 8" table that would be approx. 900 lbs.

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For an 8" table it would be about 6 lbs... for an 8' table, about 900 lbs.

Bren R.