I see what you are talking about now. I kind of visualized it, but the pictures help.

PS, I own a number of R/C vehicles, but never get the chance to get them out: 2 battery powered cars, 1 nitro powered car, a souped up airplane, and helicopters - both the tiny 8-9 inch kind, and one bigger one. I used to have another plane and a nitro boat too.

Oh, and on-topic, I returned a bunch of R19 insulation today, and bought some R13. I wasn't thinking correctly when I bought the 5.5 inch thick R19 and framed it 3.5 inches (2x4) thick. Cheaper fix at this point was the insulation vs. reframing everything with 2x6s on the exterior.

I also picked up my hat channel, super strength screws, liquid nails, more nails for my framing nailer, and a new (nicer) dust mask. I used up my last cheap one last week, and put up a few pieces of R19 insulation into the ceiling above the future bedroom. I started hacking and coughing that fiberglass crap after a couple of pieces. I wasn't putting any more up without a new mask. This time I was a big spender. I went from $1.50 mask to a $5.00 one. Probably should have just bought a $30 respirator before I started this project.

After supper, and a little Amazon.com shopping for Christmas, I am going to try to get the ceiling insulation back up in the home theater, and see if I can crank out all of the exterior wall insulation. The walls will go a LOT easier since there aren't all of the pipes, wiring, ductwork, etc to work around.

PS. Got my quote for drywall. $1650 delivered and "stocked" into the house. Now to figure out how much the guy yesterday would deduct from his $6400 amount if we bought and hung the drywall instead of him subbing it out to someone else.

$1650 was for 1/2" walls, 5/8" ceilings, home theater double 5/8" walls and ceilings, plus some expensive anti-mold product for the bathroom. Although the supplier said that most people are just using regular drywall and making sure that the vent is working and is ran for a while after a shower, as it should be. The old green board product used to sag, and it was determined over time that it wasn't mold resistant anyway.

I wonder how much it will cost for screws......

Nick, on the RC front I run the electric buggy (Slash 4x4)with 2s or 3s LiPo's. I already trashed that VW body - need another new one for Christmas! And electric heli's. I'm still a noob with the helis and really just mastered a nose in hover. Using a Blade 120SR until I'm ready to step up to a collective pitch.

On the double 5/8ths drywall - I was advised when building my HT that if you doubled drywall you would benefit more if doubling with different thicknesses. That way the resonant frequency would be different between the two layers. Just thought I'd point it out as something to consider, although I don't know in practice how much of a difference it could actually make. Have you looked into that?

My "big" group is an Esky Honey Bee CP2.

As for the two different drywall thicknesses, I had read that too, but heard from some of the "experts" that the difference is only detectible with specialized equipment and that the better bet is having the all around more mass of dual 5/8" vs. a 5/8" and a 1/2". While the two different layers did help reduce some specific frequencies, the extra mass of the dual 5/8" helped across a much larger frequency range. Not sure how someone would know for sure in real life unless some serious build up, test, tear down, build up, test, compare results and hope that the second method is better type of situation.

How big is the Honey Bee CP2? My bro-in-law got me into the RC thing. He plays with 4 or 5 helis as well as multiple trucks, rock crawlers and the Mini z's on dedicated tracks with computer timing. Cool fun that is. His big heli is a Trex500 which he has mounted a small camera on. It's really neat to see both the on board video and ground filmed video of the same flights. I would kill someone if I tried to fly that thing!

Keep the HT updates coming!

Cheers,

The heli is about 20.5" long with a 21" rotor span.


In the basement I managed to get all of the insulation up for the external walls. With a ceiling height of a little less than 8 feet, every piece needed to be cut a few inches. There were a number of other framing obstacles to cut around. What a messy job. This time I wore a long sleeve shirt and a decent dust mask. I am a lot less itchy tonight than last night when I was wearing a short sleeve shirt and was lacking in the dust mask department.

Tomorrow night I will get all of the home theater ceiling insulated and see how far I can get on the walls. I will (I promise) take and post some pictures.

I have an old RC10 and JRX2 buried somewhere in the basement. Used to really love racing RC cars (dirt) as a hobby. My first RC car was the Kyosho Raider (entry level car back then). I used to keep up with and even beat some of the better models of the day. I keep saying someday I will pull them out and rebuild em.

I have a Raider Pro. That silly thing was nearly indestructible. I would take it off any jump/obstacle, and it seemed like a ball joint would pop off if it was really rough, but that would be it. Then back off and running.

Raider Pro (Stock Photo)


My other electric car is the Tamiya Dirt Thrasher (Stock Photo)


Maybe I am getting too old. Maybe it is because it has been too long, but I can't recall the name of the nitro powered car I have. It is in a box in our storage area.

I've got the same transmitter as you do, but for an amphibian RC model. It crashed on my first flight and I lost one channel on the receiver so I upgraded to a new transmitter and receiver that's programmable on my laptop.

I was out flying my powered electric glider yesterday. Perfect, no wind.

Cheers,
Alan

Wow, the RC enthusiasts are all coming out! Maybe we should bring our RC gear to the next Axiom get together?