Buy it for HER birthday!

Footprint wise, a cabinet saw takes up less floor space than a contractor saw. My floor is uneven as my floor drain is in the middle of my garage. I just found a spot on the floor where all the rollers sit squarely with the saw stable. I then painted some reference marks on the floor that I roll the saw to and all is golden.

Adrian, I had trouble with my Rigid’s fence. My journey to a better fence led me to the purchase of a slightly used Unisaw and Incra fence. I absolutely love this set up and wish I had done this years ago. I like the Incra so much I bought one for my router table.

If I was looking at brand new saws, the Sawstop would be my first choice. I’ve seen them up close and I think the quality is higher than Powermatic or the Unisaw. They are very nicely put together. The blade stop is just a great bonus.

Here’s a pic of my saw with cantilevered rail and infield table support. It helps keep the footprint smaller for those uneven floors….



I built the router table so I could move the Incra from the rear to the side for dovetail work (makes it easier to reach on the side). I've since built a little oak pod for the Wixey in the pic.

That's all B.S. That is not a workshop. I saw that room at the Delta showroom. No dust. No scraps. No kid's bikes. No blood on the saw...no duct tape.

Complete B.S.

Too Funny.... LOL

Does anyone have a good tip for cleaning glue off K-body clamp bars? I've been putting off cleaning mine for too long.

My Father-in-Law has a Saw Stop saw and it has had a few false activations of the braking mechanism and this is not a cheap thing to fix once it is set off. I beleive this is why the other companies avoided this technology.

I asked around a little about a retro-fitting riving knife with mixed response....one older fellow, who's quite knowledgeable re woodworking, at my local HD said he thought Woodcraft or someone made a kit to retro-fit older table saws, but I checked with a local woodworking store he recommended and they said they hadn't heard of any...'yet', but he thought some companies might bring one out at some time.

I just don't see exactly how a riving knife is that much better than the blade guard/divider already on the tablesaws that everyone simply removes to do the more intricate cuts, dado's etc. I would bet a riving knife would be removed more than it is left on.

I've seen riving knives that sit lower than the height of the blade so they can stay installed, on the otherhand if the knife is above the blade, it'll need to be removed for non-through cuts which would be a pain as you infer, Jay. I've had wood bind on me while I'm cutting, esp when I did my hardwood flooring and had to rip some hardwood lengthwise. The riving knife is much more robust than the normal divider and is there to stop the back of the already cut wood from binding on the cutter and creating a dangerous kick back. I've been lucky so far, no kickbacks, but I've had some binding/burning a few times so if there's a retrofit available I'd certainly check it out.

BTW, nice shop Michael!!

Most dividers I have seen utilize antikickback pawls and they actually work pretty good........ if they are installed.

After some looking around I think the Riving Knife is the new version of this old stand guard and does allow for some slightly better safety as some knives do appear to be able to stay on for those non through cuts as Adrian mentioned.

On the new tables, the riving knife simply pulls out and snaps in. It's completely tool less (except for some operators) so it's not an inconvenience at all. It's better than the pawls in that no markings/indents would be placed on the wood should it be utilized.