No way to set up planks for a scaffold?

Good thought, but no, I can't easily set that up. I'd rather the time lost than the money lost for investing in a scaffolding setup.

I can see you've been a cedar-shake-scribing fool as well. So worth it. The filler piece that was the transition from the old clapboards (?) to stone is nowhere near as clean a look. And I don't think that losing some of the depth of the stone reveal is a loss in any way----certainly not in exhange for the shakes.

A cup hook (or a 2.5" finishing nail) and a second ladder would help with the chalk lines. Scaffolding and planks are for poosies. (I'm guilty of skywalking, too, but Mark is on point---way safer and more maneuverability.)

What's going to happen to them after the installation is finished? You've been doing great so far, so don't piss me off now.

.:Runs away and researches before hopefully posting the response that will not piss off Bob:.

Seriously though, my plan so far was to let them weather for a season and then pick out a nice stain for next year. I have not researched this, it's simply what I think at the moment. Open to suggestions as always!

Be careful- Bob can get very suggestive!

I was hoping someone else who is good with wood could chime in!

Could I tee that up any better?

Ahhhh! That is zackry what I was hoping to hear, Dan! Smart man, that Dan.

Edit: Oil (alkyd) base only. Keep in mind, though they initially look better, the more opaque the stain, the shorter the life.

Sorry ya got me again (though I have been someone else, and more than once), bu' 'twasn't a wood question, 'twas a "residential exterior surface coatings preparation and application technician" question.

Bob, is this a typo? I always thought the LESS opaque, the less protection it offered?

Good catch, Mark, but, no. (Kreiss, at least someone is paying attention!)

Color opacity is determined by pigment loading (how many actual grains of the color "stuff" (don't make me get into the "stuff") are in the vehicle (the oil (alkyd) or water base).

The quality of the product is in the vehicle, which contains binders, drying agents, or retarders, etc., and some sort of varnish which will determine the ultimate finish (for paint, not stain). The quality of the color is mostly in the pigment--- quality AND quantity. The more pigment you add, you're taking up space that should be for the vehicle, so the binding properties (above all others) are compromised.

It's the same reason why you can't tint a primer to a deep base color. The ratio of pigment to primer would get all whacky and the long-term performance (mostly adhesion) will suffer.