HI: I've been away for awhile hope everyone here is doing ok these days???

Starting to think/research about a new TV currently have a Panasonic plasma TV from 2013 55ST60 love it. So that being my benchmark so to speak which TV is better then or a least as good as what I have now?Reading up OLED seems to be the clear winner....however have gone to 2 stores & both said the OLED should last 4-7 years???Really dropping 2500(Canada is where I live) for such a short time of ownership???So given that & reading conflicting info on burn in & price premium on OLED vs even a higher end LED(which is what say a QLED is) if it lasts say 9+ years that seems to be a better direction to go??What says you guys!Stay & well folks!!

For starters, if you have had a top of the line plasma(which it looks like you have), especially when it comes to the black levels, contrast and depth of colours, it is doubtful that you will ever be happy with any LED including the better QLED sets from Samsung and others which come relatively close, but at the price of crushed blacks and their top models you will pay almost as much as you do for an OLED anyway. The idea of lifespan and what the salesperson told you is questionable mainly because lifespan has many variables including how often you use the set and how bright you prefer your picture settings and this applies to any technology. Burn in is an issue that has for the most part been mitigated with new technologies built into recent models of OLEDS to the point that the the new LG OLEDS are now at the top of the food chain for gamers. Also, off axis viewing in OLEDS can't be beat. LG manufactures all of the OLED panels for OLED models anyway regardless of the brand(Sony, Panasonic, Vizio etc.).

There is no question that the better QLED's are brighter, but, that is only if you require a television that is located in a room that always has a considerable amount of extraneous light shining on the screen all the time. I bit a rather large bullet back in late May and bought a 77" LG CX OLED and compared to my previous LEDs, especially for movie viewing, well, there is no comparison, especially in a darker room watching in HDR or Dolby Vision. One note of interest, when the colorists for movie studios put their final touches on any movie before it is released to the theaters, they only use one type of technology for set-up, OLEDs, nothing else.

All of this, of course, is my opinion, but I have owned both and, like I said right at the beginning, if you have had a plasma and love it, the only technology that will match that picture quality will be an OLED, the OLED will just be somewhat brighter.

We discussed this in another thread not long ago this year.
Some myths being pushed out there re: OLED just like there were for LCD and then plasma when they were all first introduced.
ANY tv will have burn in under the right conditions which typically do not apply to your average home owner who watches tv, videos and maybe some gaming. If any person is an extremist watching only CNN all day, gaming 10+ hours per day of the same game that has any fixed logos or fixed graphics THEN after a few years you might see some burn in, maybe.

I'm still going OLED very shortly. Starting doing some research this year. Have to replace the AVR as well. Just came across this bombshell this morning re: HDMI 2.1 and the newest AVRs (if i could create a post i would start a different threads but for some reason i can't).
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...hdmi-2-1-chip-panasonic-solutions.16979/

There is a guy who does reviews online "FOMO" I saw last week who was one of the first to expose this flaw in the chip that for some bizarre reason, seems to have been simply an unforgiveable breakdown in communication between the AVR manufacturers, the company making the chips and, of course, Microsoft(XBox), Nvidia and as far as is know, Sony with the PS5. It seems to boil down to the fact that in order for all of the AVR mfgs. to have full bandwidth AV switching capability they should have installed a chip that offered de-compressed video, whereas the chip they did ultimately install was designed only for compressed video hence, even with a fully 2.1 compatible monitor, one would get nothing more than a black screen. Apparently the X Box was the first to expose this issue which a firmware update in the AVRs won't solve. The work around of course, and assuming the machines have both audio and video outputs, you can still plug the video directly into a 2.1 compatible monitor with EArc while the audio goes into the AVR which makes the purchase of one of these new models unnecessary.

I am sure for at least a few months anyway, Denon, Marantz and Yamaha are looking at some pretty substantial losses in sales.

See the other thread i started on this.

I'll be looking for some used deals if people start dumping these 2020 AVRs because of it.

I went with the OLED about two years ago now and it's been great. Amazing black levels. There is a burn in effect you have to watch out for and i'm starting to see a slight sign of it where the broadcaster logos go. otherwise sharpest picture i've ever seen.

The 2020 LG models have a number of features that mitigate burn-in in all but the most extreme cases.
For eg. when you are watching any programming regardless of source, there is a gradual "pixel shifting" mechanism going on which is virtually unnoticeable so there is never really a static set of pixels on the screen at any given time. There is also a more intense "pixel refresher" feature that they suggest if any retention becomes noticeable or just for maintenance purposes once or twice a year, when activated in the screen saver menu, a more intense process takes place for at least an hour after you turn off the television.
In addition, there is the ability to soften some static logos and if, you leave the monitor on where there is fixed images on the screen for just a few minutes, like a computer, the screen goes black and a screen saver activates. Just moving the remote returns to what was on the screen.

I suppose this latter item might be a pain to some, however, ultimately, you get used to it. Incidentally, there was a YouTuber whom in order to test the burn-in claims by some, turned on CNN with all their logos and fixed images for three straight days/24 hrs. a day and reported he never had a hint of any burn-in or image retention. It seems, for the vast majority, other than for the odd few who might have received a flawed panel, under normal usage, burn-in hasn't been an issue.

I have a 48" LG CX OLED on the way to use as a gaming/productivity monitor and office tv. Can't wait to play Flight Simulator 2020 in 4K/120Hz. Should be pretty immersive from 3.5 feet away. I'm not too worried about burn-in, and am finding it hard to justify splurging on Best Buy's $450 CAD extended warranty (basically a quarter of the price of the TV itself).

Hi: Took the plunge today bought this TV below: Not a gamer so this was my choice!!Thanks for the help will report back after get it up & running late next week!!!

My TV

I've never heard of acoustic surface audio for a TV.

Good choice and great picture right out of the box. At the time I bought CX the A8H wasn't available yet and in the 77" version the previous A9G was almost $1000 more than the LG, not quite as "future proof" and, according to the reviews and specs not quite as bright as the LG in HDR.

In any case, for video and movies you can't go wrong.

For those not wanting to fork out $5,000 CAD for a 77" OLED, I'd recommend checking out the TCL 6-series 75" Mini-LED QLED. I just got my hands on one, and am loving it so far. It comes remarkably close to OLED black levels, gets brighter, has better colours, and won't break the bank (75" is $2,000 CAD).

I have a 48" LG CX OLED that I'm using as a PC monitor, and it's amazing for gaming at 4K 120hz, but the TCL handles 99% of movie scenes just as well. You'd have to put them side by side to really see the difference.

I've also tried the 2019 Vizio PX Quantum (backlight/panel issues, no 4:4:4 support) and the Sony 800F (not bright, horrible black levels, but great processing). Vizio has also pulled out of the Canadian market, so there's that too.

The LG 77” OLED CX is on sale for only $3500us everywhere right now ($4200us for the GX). Just in case you have $3500 burn’in a hole in your pocket

As a matter of fact, I was looking for that TCL model monitor, but, at the time, this past May, I couldn't find it and I had my heart set on a large screen OLED anyway and even though I am not a gamer, the FOUR 2.1 HDMI inputs, 120 HZ and all the other bells and whistles seems to have made it quite "future proof". Of course, that was UNTIL I happened to see the $30,000 LG 88" 8K OLED. Now, to say the least, that was something.

As far as Vizio is concerned, given how few of their higher end models were available, at times, one would be hard pressed to say they were even in the Canadian market anyway and even in the U. S. adequate and consistent inventory in retailers has always been a perennial problem with them.

I guess what additionally helped me make my choice along the way was a report that came out in Consumers Report magazine not long ago that stated even with all the new and exciting varied technologies available in monitors, when it comes to reliability and consistency, ultimately, you still get what you pay for with OLEDs at the top of the list primarily because it is a simpler technology without all the multiple layers of LCDs required to produce the picture.

That 88" OLED would be incredible to have. Hopefully it's a bit more attainable in about 5 years time.

That's a good point on Vizio. Too bad, as they were starting to show some real promise. I think their OLED's are making a bit of a splash in the US though.

OLED's are very consistent, which is a big part of why I'm finding the 48" LG CX to be the best monitor I've ever owned. If I can get it to run 3840x1600 at 120Hz, it'll be perfect. As much as I wanted to have a 77" in the basement, the cost is just a bit much. I was able to get the 75" TCL + 48" OLED + GTX 3080 for the same price.

LG is coming out with an 83” OLED for 2021 in both the C&G versions ... wonder what the price is gonna be?

A lot.

Easily $10k-$20k USD.

I think these OLEDs are coming down in price. LG’s 77” CX dropped to $3300 recently.... and the GX hit $3700. The GX came out originally at $6000, 4month later it was $5000, 4 months after that $4000. How much more can an extra 6” be?

My, probably overly hopeful, guess will be it will list for $8k and drop to $5k over the year
Which is still more then I want to spend

rrlev, I noticed the same thing...big price drops on the OLEDs!

I'm pitching my TV over my neighbor's roof. It interferes with the Family of Curves.

Mojo, if I’m to take that as it interferes somehow with the room acoustics do you know why? Or is that just a joke which went over my head?

No joke. The larger the display up front, the worse the imaging and soundstage depth.

Guess I haven’t noticed it. Not that I have listened to a lot of music in the family room lately ...

You aren't going to notice it unless you run listening tests with and without the TV. Some would say you have to do those tests blind.

I think my oak floor and 16 foot high ceilings have more effect on my 2 channel systems fidelity than the 60” lcd between the loudspeakers. I have listened both with and without the set although I didn’t bother listening “blind”. Difficult to say one scenario was “better” than the other.
Good enough for now.
Of course YMMV.

Jeff

Can’t imagine a tv being that much worse then a wall.

Perhaps it matters if the TV is standing too proud off the wall. Mine is a good 14" off the wall. The soundstage is definitely deeper without it. Of course with the TV, you can never add a diffuser like Trevor did. He added a diffuser, his wife had a rapture and that's the last we heard of it.

I don’t like having my living room as the listening room but it’s all I have. What the rooms contribution is to the experience I can’t remove only modify. And then modify within reason. After all it’s not just my space. I’d rather have the flat panel wall mounted, eliminate the 20” x 24” x 72” console. I would introduce a multiple level rack off to the side and call it a day. Maybe a separate music room in the next place? Probably not.

Jeff

Think my screen is around an 1” off the wall

My screen is 21" off the back wall.
Take into account the size of the M60s, their displacement off the wall of about 6" and wanting the screen to be inline with the speaker fronts....

I suppose i could push the screen right back but the look in the room would be very different and i'm not sure what would be gained by doing so. i would also have to tinker with the speaker distance settings to sync the sound with the picture.

And just going back a bit in this thread, OLED is far superior to the Sony XBR LED we have on the main floor. I've seen QLED and i didn't find it any different than the Sony. All three have great colours. Definitely the blacks and richness go to the OLED but the biggest difference is no off axis contrast change with OLED.

So far watching anything in 4k is so amazing that I feel i can't go back to 1080 "HD", but there is little content unless you are running Netflix or something similar (we have a satellite PVR receiver and recently bought a Roku stick so was looking at 4k content via Youtube).
Colour tweaking is just nuts. Out of the box i thought it looked really good until i started nitpicking. Researching online brought 'some' results but i didn't like the recommendations by some.
Someone will have to explain to me why most suggest to change the tv colour temp to "Warm" of some kind such that everything that should be white turns a slight off white beige instead. I just don't get it. That is not 'accurate' colour at all.

I didn't check but what brand did you buy? Generally the standard is if you don't want to go through the expense of calibration, usually a "Cinema Mode" or "Expert mode" (each brand describes it a little differently)out of the box will usually provide you with the color accuracy that is closest to the creators content which is D65 white and will be in the warm setting. Some people initially don't like the look of these Cinema/D65 settings because they may look a little yellow or pink, however, it does closest represent the standard. It just takes a little getting used to. All the other modes, depending how the brand describes them like Vivid or Standard, Sports, etc, are way off the mark and although nice and bright and jumping out at you, are just not accurate, especially when watching movies on a 4K BR player. They are generally just blown out with too much blue.

In the end, it is your preference, however, if one has spent a chunk of change on an OLED sometimes calibration could be a good idea since the stuff you get on Youtube often is wrong and every panel on any television regardless of type, is different anyway and the settings you see there when tried on your set just don't turn out the same. Also, if the YouTuber is legitimate, they will tell you that their settings only apply to their monitor and to not necessarily expect the same results with yours. When all is said and done, when you find the settings you like but, still find the "whites' a little too pink or beige, let me know, since I learned a little trick how to deal with that from a pro calibrator without affecting the rest of the picture quality.

The new Tv is a LG CX 77" OLED.
I'm using the "user for dark rooms" setting. It was defaulted to another "AVS" or something like that right out of the box. On that setting the greens were neon nuclear and whites super bright (both contrast and OLED light values were set to 100!). Yes kind of looks like it really pops, but it's not accurate.
I use the 'dark rooms' setting but changed the option from Warm 2 to Warm 1 for colour temp. As a person who watches hockey, ice should never be 'slightly beige'.
That's just heresy.

I'll need to get myself a whole new dvd for tweaking colours and such. I have contemplated buying into the equipment and doing home calibration but then again, i'm getting a bit less extreme with age. I think i'll just tweak by eye to what makes sense but would still like to have an accurate reference to do that since any given youtube or other video may be modified by the director to look extra bright or whatever and hence would throw off an eyeball attempt at tweaking the settings.

Incidentally, any HDR content goes into yet another colour mode which in itself also needs to be tweaked.
[sigh]

Not that I've ever really gone down the rabbit hole, but I feel you on the not wanting to get too extreme. I didn't like how my C9 OLED looked out of the box, but I searched for some settings online, and even if it's not an actual calibration, I'm really happy with the picture, so I haven't fiddled with it since. If I ever get a projector, I'll probably put more effort into realizing its full potential.

Not sure if posting my setup will help but below is how I setup my LG OLED

First this page has some of the Picture settings definitions
https://www.lg.com/us/support/help-...-or-4k-oled-tv-CT10000018-20150577528034
Skip the video and goto the “Definitions” tab below it. It will give you instruction on setting a lot of these settings

My Goal is to get color accurate setup
I have a colormunki calibrator for my computer but have not spent the time to figure out if and how to use it with the LG … basically needed to tune the picture for panel variations.

My environment is a Dark Room with fairly dark walls
these settings are for SDR. I believe HDR and Dolby vision content automatically adjust things when detected. If you are playing HDR off of disk make sure you enable “Ultra HD Deep Color” for that input. If your playing it though and AVR then you might also have to enable a similar parameter in it as well.

Also, if you want more control over HDR you can try setting up your own parameters under the Picture Mode:HDR Effect. Same with Dolby Vision … try picture mode: Cinema. Note to use these you would need to manual switch modes for content type.

On remote click gear (setup): click “all settings” (vertical “…”), click “Picture” …

Picture:

• Picture Mode: Expert (Dark Room)
  
  • OLED Light: 77 (your choice here as it’s environment dependent)
  • Contrast: 85
  • Brightness: 50
  • Sharpness: 10
  • Color: 50
  • Tint: 0
  • Advanced Controls
    
    • Dynamic Contrast: off
    • Super Resolution: off
    • Color Gamut: Auto (choose according to content)
    • Gamma: 2.2
    • WhiteBalance: Color Temperature: Warm 2
• Energy Savings: off (I hate doing this but anything else mucks with my settings)
• Additional Settings
  - Eye Comfort Mode: off

This results in a somewhat dark picture and I may try playing a bit more to brighting it up (OLED Light, Contrast, and Brightness). The goal being to brighten but not loose detail in shadows or highlights while retaining a true black.

Have fun, Rich

There is a guy on Youtube called "Ninjician" who is quite apt at calibration and information that is actually very informative and accurate and he has a C9 in which he measured it in "Expert Dark Mode" right out of the box with Calman software and it actually turned out to be almost dead on the money with the the standard and hardly any tweaking required at all. Expert Bright and Cinema should be close as well. Of course, once again, every panel could be a little different, hence, in your case, it may not be exactly to your liking.

Now if you are experiencing a slight beige color in the whites that means there is a little too much red at the top end which seems to be not uncommon with Oleds. You might want to try this, leave your setting on Warm 2, however, go into your Advanced Control and turn all your Color Gamut settings to "Auto" then go into the 2 point White balance settings and on the High setting only, leaving the Red at 0, adjust your Green level up by 5 and Blue by 6. These changes can be made with the Cinema and Expert Dark Mode as well. You might have to tweak this a little, however, what is happening here is you are altering the White Point on the monitor which should eliminate that beige tinge you are viewing without the other settings down the spectrum being altered. You could adjust your Peak Brightness level as well. Apparently these settings actually come from the chief guru at Calman because this minor change best matches the Sony reference OLED and the whites of a proper calibrated Plasma.

If you wish, try it out and see what happens.

That's interesting to note. I have read that some people/reviewers won't put out their calibrations because they can be different for each set, but most should be close. I read that the Expert Dark Mode was close to perfect ouf of the box but yes, way too beige for me. Otherwise i think most of my settings are pretty similar to what Rich posted. I'll check again tonight and see what i've got everything set at. The one difference as mentioned is i use the Warm 1 instead of the Warm2 setting.

I have learned LG OLED's suffer from a consistent problem with their white point which is called "mesmaritism" an issue that despite being overall color accurate, has an issue with the brightest white being slightly pink or beige which is a slight overabundance of red at the brightest points in the picture. The expert and cinema modes actually come out of the factory based on a D65 white point which is technically accurate but, for some reason no one really knows, creates the above problem. Of course, most casual viewers wouldn't notice this anyway.

Sony OLEDs, out of the box tend to be somewhat more color accurate however, their white points are a little more towards the blue/green hence the recommendation I made above that bumping up the green and blue levels at the high point of a two point white balance calibration deals with that problem but in the Warm 2 position because making these adjustments in Warm 1 would ultimately make the picture lean too much towards blue.