Component cables... get some good, shielded 75ohm rated cables - or if you're handy with a soldering iron, get connectors and bulk cable and make them the right length.
HDMI cables - buy premade cable at the right (or close) length... the connectors remind me way too much of Centronics printer cables and after having made a few of those by hand... *shivers* HDMI is suggested to be less than a 45ft (15m) run, so you should be well within spec for standard copper with no repeaters/amps.
You'll be cavity installing this stuff, I assume... use cable clips (like
these - RadShack 278-1661) to hang the cable, don't use staples, way too easy to crush the wire. Cross AC runs at 90 degrees when possible, stay away from lights with dimmers and fluorescent ballasts, leave as much room between cables as possible (perhaps using the right side of one joist for the HDMI, and spacing the components (assuming you use three separate cables) across the left side of the next - leaves them in the same cavity, yet they're physically apart)
If you plan on permanently boxing in the area (ie: drywall ceiling instead of acoustic tile), maybe throw up anything extra you might think you'll need later... even if it's just RG6 coax to use as a fish line later.
Oh, and one other thing because it comes up semi-frequently (like everytime someone asks me about signal wiring for a reno project) - plenum-rated cable is not necessary for home installation. What it means is that if the cable catches fire, it won't release noxious fumes. It's used in commercial installations where, if a floor of a building burns, all the cable up in a cable tray (or worse, routed through an air plenum) would melt and let off fumes that would incapacitate people before they got a chance to exit the building.
Bren R.
