"Real" bi-amping (where you disable the speaker crossover and add an electronic crossover before the amplifiers) really does make a difference, but mostly by letting you run the woofer amp closer to clipping without hearing the distortion in your midrange and tweeters.

"Faux" bi-amping (where you run exactly the same signal into both amps) doesn't seem to accomplish much more than bi-wiring, and most don't feel bi-wiring accomplishes any more than going up to the next size of speaker wire.

As soon as you add a powered subwoofer with separate amplifier, you gain 99% of the benefit of "real" bi-amping anyways. Bi-amping was big back when woofers carried ALL the bass, and sub-woofers were a dream.


M60ti, VP180, QS8, M2ti, EP500, PC-Plus 20-39
M5HP, M40ti, Sierra-1
LFR1100 active, ADA1500-4 and -8