Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion Home Theater Storm damage to HT room?

Yup, you figured out the key.

I did eventually move the M22's onto the M80s and I previously used the M60s with the M22s on top which sounded VERY good.

Nice job on the floor, Brian. I am a flooring installer myself, i wish I would have seen this post earlier.

What I do,(27 years practice)is I float the floor with the Mapei floor leveler with the additive(watered down white glue)and then just scrape the high spots with a 14" trowel. Keep doing this until the floor is like glass,it may take two or three coats but it dries fairly fast.

You can also accelerate the drying time by putting a fan in the doorway,facing up to the ceiling for air movement.Don't put the fan directly on the floor because the leveler will dry too fast and crack.

I would never use a belt sander because you will get a wavy floor.

Shawn

I did get a slightly wavy floor, btw. I can feel it when I walk barefoot on it. I was going to sand a little more, until my sander needed repair (I get the sander back tomorrow, cost $20 to remove the cord from being stuck.) I can live with it for now. Sometime in the future, I may pull the vinyl back up and finish the job.

About using that particular leveler, it might not have worked in my situation. The subfloor is old plywood, that I didn't want to replace because I didn't want to remove all of the cabinets, and everything that's connected to them. The old vinyl tiles that I removed was most likely glued down with some asbestos infested black goo. I removed this using a mall (Long pole with a blade at the end at a 90 degree angle to pole). At several spots, some plywood particles came up attached to the vinyl, exposing the inside of the plywood. The leveler I used filled up these gaps quite well without causing the plywood to warp. I also didn't want to add another layer of plywood, so I can have a seamless floor where the vinyl meets a hardwood floor.

Did you run the cord over? I always joke with my customers when I'm doing their vinyl flooring...I tell them I'm a plastic surgeon!

Yes that leveler would have worked fine,and the black glue is asphalt emulsion, so it is good you patched over it or it bleeds through the new material.

Yeah. I ran it over a cord. I was being good about keeping the cord out of the way, and having it go over my shoulder right from the sander, so all of the cord is behind me, but I got a little careless and started sanding around where the cord was.

Now that the VP180 comes in a cabinet version which makes it possible to mount in the wall, underneath my TV where the in/on-wall VP100 resides now. There is about 2 feet of in-wall space behind the VP100. I'm wondering how it would sound mixed with my M22's and EP350? (Click on my signature link to see picture.)

The VP180 was intended to compliment the M60/80s, but I would think it should match the M22s just as well since so many people have commented about the sonic similarities when comparing the M22+sub to M80s.

That's what I'm thinking for overall sound, but there may be a big difference when sounds pan across the screen. There is that problem now, only in the opposite direction. The VP100 doesn't produce as much bass as the M22's, leaving male vocals a little off. At least the VP180 would fix that problem. Since 95% of the vocals come out of the center channel, I think over all it would sound better than the VP100 with the M22's. The VP150 'might' be a closer match, but I think the VP180 would sound better overall.

I've got to pay my sister back $1100 that I've borrowed, then I'll think about getting a VP180. Worst case, I can send it back and exchange it for a VP150. Although, my poor wall will be ounching a bit from all the holes I've cut and repaired.

Here's a website where I made some plans for the future of my room that got destroyed. I didn't get the measurements exactly yet, so it's approx. I don't like this method of posting a link to my drawing, but need better software for this that I can post to a forum. Also, it didn't have projector screen or speakers that I could place, so I just used an extra big TV to represent where the screen goes.

After going to this site, you then have to keep centering the picture and making it bigger. There's also a 2d and 3d button on the upper right.

I've tried the google drawing tools, but never could figure it out good enough to do this room with it.

Here's the same thing, only with more exact dimensions. I'm somewhat forced to put the divider wall where I have it, because there's a pole in the middle of the wall about even with the backs of the chairs. Also, the door leading into the theater room needs to swing into the room, because there's an steel beam and heater ducts on the fireplace side that would limit the height of the door to 6 foot. Also I don't like the idea of the door opening and pointing to the bottom of the stairs. That's an accident waiting to happen.

The wall across from the fireplace might be a good place to hang a few movie posters. Not sure where to put the popcorn machine. The alcove beside the bathroom is where I want to put a stack of shelves on wheels that will hold the AV equipment. There's a floor drain at the back of this alcove, that used to be for a shower. I may have to level this floor a bit with a sheet of plywood, cutting out a hole with a 2nd floor drain mounted in the plywood.

The ceiling is only 7 foot high. On AVSforum, I saw another HT with 7 foot ceiling where they built a small alcove next to the ceiling into the back wall. It would be easier if I could do this directly over the AV rack alcove, but it would be off center. Does the project have to be square with the center of the screen, or is there some adjustment that would allow you to place it off to one side? I'm thinking probably not.

I'm going to start a HT build on AVSforum, but am waiting to get a camera and better software for drawing first.