A surfer from Arizona! COOL!
I first tried surfing in SoCal when I was stationed at Camp Pendleton. “Popcorn,” our corpsman, was a local and got me in with the other locals around San Clemente. Didn’t really start enjoying or getting any good until I was stationed in Ghana. I started body boarding with some wooden boards that “Sam the Great,” former Ghanaian Olympic swimmer’s, sons rented at Labadi Beach.
Then while I was dating the German Ambassadors daughter her brother brought a 6’1” thruster down for his summer break. He never got the hang of it so he sold it to me because I was the only person in Accra “crazy” enough to body surf/board the Labadi Beach break at that time when it was big. That’s when I went nuts surfing 6-10 hours a day almost every day of the week. There was some nice surf along the Ghanaian coast and best of all in a year and a half I only ran into one other surfer, a guy from Canada out from the World Bank.
Continued surfing when I was stationed in New Zealand and later Sierra Leone. Eventually I accumulated 5 boards ranging from a 5’4” thruster to a 10’4” longboard. Only have 4 now as I gave the 9’6” board to Canadian when I left Sierra Leone. I just realized I met a lot of Canadians when I lived in Africa. Always remember we’d make fun of the way the Brits with us would eat pizza with a knife and fork working from the center out while we’d cut into wedges.
Only places I’ve surfed in the last 2 years are Hawaii, Guam and Okinawa. Nice thing about those places is they’re also tourist destinations for Japanese…girls.
P.S. Surfing is never OT.
P.P.S. Surfing is better than sex!
Cheers,
Dean
