|#423711 - 02/28/17 02:24 PM Re: mount on-wall m3 on the ceiling with tilt bracket? [Re: sotwell]|
Loc: Marion, IA
Yeah, you can't use the T-Bracket that comes with the on-walls. Those are great for walls, but ceilings, not so much. You have 2 options.
1) Use the T Bracket, but pull the larger driver from the front of the speaker enclosure, drive a screw through the back of the speaker enclosure into the ceiling to prevent it from falling/sliding off of the T-Bracket. With 10' ceilings, this will work and is quick, easy, and cheap.
2) Use something sturdy like the Axiom FMB (Full Metal Bracket) and "hang" the on-wall speaker from that. You will need to drill through the back of the speaker cabinet where you want the FMB to mount to and then attach with small bolts and nuts. This will require you to find the center of the speaker from a weight perspective so that they can be nicely maneuvered. You will need to take the larger woofer/driver out of the speakers for this too.
I have ceilings that are less than 8 feet tall, so for my fronts, I used FMBs, for my rears, I wanted a lot less of an angle, so I just made wooden wedges". Here is a quote from my room build and update thread here (titled 'Maybe I should start a v4.0 build thread somewhere') with some pictures. This was from 03/26/2016. There are pictures before and after that may also be helpful. Also, I don't have them angled nearly as much anymore either. The sound difference wasn't much at all and being closer to the ceiling helps to make them not stand out either.
Originally Posted By nickbuol
Anyway, here are today's updates... The good, and the bad...
First up, is a photo of me marking the back of two of the M3s for where the FMB will go. I basically put this dead center from side-to-side, but a little off center from the normal top to bottom since I will be rotating the speakers 90 degrees and the center of gravity was a little closer to the center of the woofer obviously.
I drilled the holes, and put the bolts (with washers) through from the inside since I knew that the woofer sat REALLY close to the back of the inside of the M3 cabinet.
Then I attached the one end of the FMB.
Then we were gone for several hours...
When I got home, I then went into the theater and mounted the other half of the FMB with some really large toggle bolts.
Then it was time to put up one of the M3s at the "recommended" angle towards the listening area. Wow did these things stick down more than I imagined, but they were lined up exactly with where they were recommended for optimal Atmos/DTS:X and for having 2 rows of seats.
And with the front grill (Axiom logo moved to the long end)...
Then I started thinking... Hmmmm.... Those really do hang down pretty low. I wonder if they will be in the way of the projected image on the screen...
Yup. REALLY in the way.
Dang it... Now I need to relocate the FMBs, and move the speaker wire so that it stays behind the speakers (and not just the front 2, I had to move the back to speaker wires out as well). I ended up moving them 3.5" towards the outside, and then tested again, and I am now clearing the projector image by a solid half inch, however, I now am waiting for drywall mud to dry, and then my 2.5 day patch/texture/paint process to hide it.
I think that I will put a small heater in the room again tonight, and then get up a little early before we head out of town for Easter and do a light sanding, and a 2nd lighter layer of drywall mud so that tomorrow night I can hopefully wet sand, texture, and maybe even paint. Then the front speakers can go back up as I already remounted the FMBs.
Tonight, I also cut my wood blocks for the rear 2 speakers. These just needed a small, 15 degree angle to them, so I cut a piece of 2x4 to the correct angle, and pre-drilled for the toggle bolts already (with the heads of the bolts recessed into the block). I also painted the sides of these angled blocks, and tomorrow night, if there is time, I will lightly sand the top and bottom so that I am not putting uncured flat paint against more flat paint (cured on the ceiling, uncured on the speakers). Sure, there will be some slight cosmetic touch-ups on the speakers should the day come that we move out and take the speakers with us, but I would like to minimize it a bit.
The rear 2 speakers will have the wood blocks, as mentioned, toggle-bolted to the ceiling, and then using regular screws, I will screw the M3s to the wood blocks. All holes predrilled to prevent any splitting, to keep the M3's looking as nice as possible, and to control exactly where the speakers mount to keep them accurately lined up once the wood blocks are mounted in their measured and correct positions.
Until next time....
2-M60s, VP180, 8-M3s, SVS 20-39PCi, DIY Sub, 8-Shakers, JVC RS45, Anthem MRX-1120