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Use lots of screws when attaching the drywall to the channel. I used one every 6 inches and still had to add more later for a few random rattles.

If I did channel again in a room with subs I would lay a heavy bead of silicone on the channel before attaching drywall. I cant remember if you are backing the drywall with osb. If you are it will reinforce the stiffness of walls and increase bass variation. Toss up between isolation and performance.

One layer drywall on channel- walls act as large diaphrams. Help lower decay times of lower frequencies due to surface area. Less stc performance. Potential for rattles.

Two layers on channel w/green glue- neutral assembly. Great stc.

One layer with wood backer- extremely stiff wall. Bass decay longer. Potential for reinforced nodes.

Two layers with wood backer- might as well be concrete, but without the stc performance. Not a great use of budget, but people do it.

The transmission loss of the assembly only needs to be higher than the ambient noise in adjacent spaces. So, if there is laundry nearby for example, an stc of 60 or so is plenty. If you are trying to keep the sound IN the room bass energy is the problem. Maybe the MLV will help with this, but I have no experience with it.

If I was to redo a built from scratch room for me, I would stud my walls as normal, insulate with quiet zone, then run comfortboard 80 perpendicular on studs. Then one layer of drywall. Done. Flexible with super high stc, no chance of rattles.


Whatever you do, put a smoke alarm in there connected to the rest of the house detectors. You arent going to hear it otherwise.

The only issue I see with leaving a gap is the triple leaf effect. Between layers any air gap non damped with material is going to create a space for sound to resonate and actually lower the stc.

Line the osb with a soundmat then drywall. Bunker. Yet flex in drywall. This ties the floor assembly logic you mention into a wall. You should be able to find reliable data on the idea or similar

Very important to understand your home vapour flow before sealing a room with non permeable membranes. Ensure your home is dry and know moisture always dries to the outside in cold climates. Below grade, be sure you have conditioned air movement and low humidity. Any moisture between the mlv and osb will dry slowly. Ensure this space never gets cold/moist to reduce chances of condensation.

https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/...nt-prep/sound-absorbing-mats-boards.html

Page 10 info. Wood wall assemblies page 20.
http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_...ssets/acoustical-assemblies-en-SA200.pdf

The theater is designed for flexibility in expansion of future channels and a possible Hail Mary on future formats. The current plan is for 7.4.6 for phase 1 (see below). If prepros with over 16 channels ever come down in price it would be interesting to see how much of an improvement say 11.4.8 would make. But for now we will live on earth

Note: the plan below is a bit out of date with probably the biggest change being that the top and bottom center speakers are now planed to be just one VP180ow behind the screen and a M3ow for center height. Most other things are little changes like adding alternate rear speaker wires at approx +/- 160.

The grey areas are the angle ranges for the bed speakers (angles in red outside of walls)
A red + indicates a speaker wire in the ceiling and a red T indicates a speaker wire in the wall. The 7 inner +'s are for tops and the rest are for heights. The blue line indicates as step down into the front of the room. The main seating is on this level. Bed speakers are red and heights and tops are purple.

Monster Cable?
Is that still a thing?

BTW, If you were my missus … I’d already be gone
Just sayin

I run XLR when I can.

Playing with lighting … trying to figure out how I want to light the theater for three scenarios…

• lights low when people are walking in.
• Lighting when the movie is running
• Fully lit … for cleaning/working on HT

So I’m testing out some led strips and laser effects.

In the picture above I’ve laid out some RGB strips along one side of the HT to simulate the look if mounted under the base board. As you can see the screen reflects this light … that’s true even just the back of the room is lit at its lowest dimness. With my own LED drivers I can do better (then the cheap commercial driver being used in the picture). But to achieve exactly what I’m looking for (enable people to exit or come back into the room while a the movie is running) I’m experimenting with addressable RGB strips. Hopefully this will allow me to turn on just enough LEDs on the strip in optimal locations to exit safely without effecting the screen. Below is one thought on giving the HT some interest (it’s a $20 laser thing I pick up off Amazon)