I haven't, but what might that accomplish?
It'll recalibrate the phased flux capacitor to the inverted tachyon field array.
Sometimes electronics just need a reboot. Granted, there's not much in a sub that ought to require a reboot, but it's worth a shot. Something easy to try, anyway.
I can think of a couple of other ideas.
1) Turn the sub's crossover all the way up, as high as it will go. To 'bypass' if that's an option. You want the receiver doing the crossover duties, not the sub.
2) Double check all of your connections & wiring. Make sure your sub cable isn't falling out somewhere or has a break in it. I'd physically disconnect & reconnect every cable in the chain. But since you're seeing voltage with the voltmeter, I don't know - sounds like you're all good on the connections front. Perhaps double check the connections & switches on the sub itself. Is there an auto-turn on setting? Perhaps jiggling that switch a bit might help. If the switch has an 'On' position, try that instead of 'Auto'. See if that makes any difference.
3) Have you tried calibrating your system with an SPL meter? It may not solve the problem, but it would give you some idea of how many DB 'cold' the sub is compared to the rest of your speakers. I don't know anything about Yamaha receivers, but your description of the settings does sound like it ought to be working.
4) Make sure the receiver isn't in some 'midnight' mode, where it's attenuating the output.
5) If it won't cause you too much stress, as a last-ditch effort you could do a full reset on the receiver. Sometimes settings get messed up and it could be hard to diagnose what it is. Resetting it would let you start from scratch. Yes, you'd have to set it all up again, potentially a PITA. I'm not very optimistic that this would solve anything, but it's something.
But again, since the sub didn't work with the CD player, that would almost have to indicate that the problem is in the Sub. Would a CD player provide enough output voltage to trigger a sub? I don't know. Anyone?
Good luck.
