@Riffman: Just one, and not at high levels with the 60's (people were sleeping). I later ran the 40's to pretty good levels for short periods, but wanted to take it slow. I will try the 60's again today. My wall wart is only providing 300mA, so hopefully a bigger supply will help with higher volume and control. This is where the mods come in too.

Overall, at normal levels it's pretty good with most things I play. Perfect for a computer or bookshelf system I think. When I plug my NAD back in there's an obvious improvement though. Better control, dynamics, bass. Replacing the T-amps caps is supposed to help a lot in that area.

@samandnoah: Post them wherever you want

@nautec: That would be nice, but I wouldn't know how to do that. You might try using the T as a power amp with a simple pre-amp. People seem to recommend a tube pre, but I'm sure there are affordable SS with remotes going around. In this case, you can either turn the volume on the T all the way up and use the pre for control, or actually wire it directly to the input jacks. A quick search and here is a remote controlled passive pre, the Creek Audio OBH-22. I guess that could work? Not sure...

"The OBH-22 is purely passive and does not introduce any gain or distortion into the signal path. It is therefore suitable to be used as a control pre-amplifier, provided the sensitivity of the power amplifier that is being used is high enough to be driven directly from the source. i.e. CD player or tuner etc."


Axiom M60ti Hsu VTF-2 Mk2 NAD C320BEE NAD C542 Systemdek IIX Cables by Unity Audio