With the caveat that if water is flowing (current) then the pressure drop (voltage drop) from the pipes (resistance) is likely to be higher and the perceived pressure (voltage) at the tap (load) will probably be lower (lower) wink

So it finally got sufficiently chilly today that I decided to fire up the masonry heater for the first time, allowing me the opportunity to savour a number of stupid things :

1. Apparently cheap tarps left outside long enough become porous, and if used to cover firewood actually end up conducting rain into the wood *more* efficiently than just leaving the wood uncovered. The top foot or so of wood in each stack seemed wetter and heavier than when I stacked it for drying a year ago.

2. Disappointed with the wet wood, I split a few pieces a couple of times and mixed in some very dry wood from under the carport. Loaded up the fireplace, seemed to light OK and burn well with the door open. Closed the door, came back a bit later and the fire was out. &^%$&*$%!!, didn't think the wood was *that* wet. Added some more tinder & kindling, relighted, kept the door open for a while then closed it. Came back, fire was out again. Got the fire going for a third time, worried about creosote buildup in the chimney (masonry heaters normally burn *very* clean), closed the door and watched what happened.

Fire went out almost immediately. Much cursing. Checked rainfall numbers, worked out potential impact on wood moisture content, something still didn't make sense.

Finally remembered to flip the switch and open the outside air feed. Lit fire, closed door, burns fine now.

Last edited by bridgman; 09/05/10 05:45 AM.

M60ti, VP180, QS8, M2ti, EP500, PC-Plus 20-39
M5HP, M40ti, Sierra-1
LFR1100 active, ADA1500-4 and -8