I tried to find out if one can use ‘electronic’ solder on copper pipe in my code book. Nothing specific to that regards. It simply refers to ASTM B32 (Standard Specification for Solder Metal).
In potable water systems, code requires the use of lead free solder. Lead helps the solder flow around the fitting easier. All lead free solder still contains trace amounts of lead, and none are actually 100% lead free. In 07 all lead free solder is to have no more than .02% lead. I think the max allowable is 2% right now.
Solder manufactures are now incorporating nickel to replace lead. Bridgit ‘nickel-bearing’ solder already meats the newer standard.
All that being said, I really don’t know what to tell you. I haven’t ran across this problem before. You are the first, congratulations!!
Copper solder is made up of several different allows to make it flow, adhere, and resist burst pressures / expansion and contraction stresses. Silver is one of those alloys. I don’t know if electronic solder contains silver. I also don’t know if it has comparable yield strength as copper solder.
Also, copper solder doesn’t have a flux core. You use an acid based flux to clean the joint from proper bonding (in addition to manual cleaning of the joints). Nocorode is what 80% or so of the plumbers I know use. Some local code governing areas require the use of water soluble flux, and it’s a pain to use.
All that non-helpful rambling aside, if you are sweating joints that will be in walls, I’d re-do them. You will always wonder about them leaking. Sweat the electronic solder out and break them apart. Clean the piss out them with your emery cloth; get a roll of Bridgit solder and some Nocorode flux. Apply heat to the joints 180 deg away from where you lay the solder to draw it into the joint. Wipe the joints with a rag, your acid brush or your gloves.
Then you’ll be able to sleep at night not worrying about water spraying all over the place.
