Really nice job Ken. That shelving unit thingie looks great.
Nothing to add on the saw choices as it's all great advice above. I'll just also echo that having a couple of different blades is often overlooked but almost as equally important as having a good saw.
At a bare minimum you want two blades to work with. A 'quality' finish blade with 100 plus teeth and then also a faster crosscut blade. A high tooth blade is definitely better when doing finish work (cabinetry, small parts, etc.) but it cuts an awful lot slower & will slow you down if your just doing framing or rough cuts (building a deck, house etc.) Sometimes you will just want to slice and dice.
Contractors & savants, like Mark, will have two miter saws at a job site to save time. One with a cheaper (in case they hit nails on reclaimed lumber) but faster cutting crosscut blade and another saw with a higher quality, 120 tooth finish crosscut blade. This cuts down on blade swapping or getting lazy and not swapping to the better blade when needed. The saw with the low tooth number blade is (at least around here) referred to as the "chop Saw".
A personal pet peeve.
An inexperienced store dude might suggest a good "combo blade" as a more simple solution but but remember that a "combo" blade normally refers to a table saw blade that it is designed for both cross cuts and for ripping. Since you physically can't rip in a miter saw, the 'combo' part is kind of wasted. Hopefully they are just borrowing the term to refer to a middle of the road crosscut saw that is decently fast but still doesn't chip too much.
Another note:
Table saw blades can be freely swapped into a miter saw and vise versa (assuming they are the same basic size 10", 12") but once again, the right blade type for the job is what counts the most.
